tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32737311859171307852024-03-05T11:18:28.379-08:00The Renaissance Girl...A collection of posts around the Renaissance, Art & FlorenceJax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-38087674613899615182014-03-27T03:29:00.001-07:002014-03-27T03:37:27.117-07:00Sandro Botticelli's The Wedding Feast, 1483 : A guest post by Clare Gibson<div>
I'm very grateful to <a href="http://mrssymbols.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Clare Gibson</a> for the following post, which she gave me a shockingly long time ago. I'm very happy to be able to post it now:</div>
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A Feast for the Eyes<br />
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Some time ago, my Twitter friend @Bebejax invited me to be a guest blogger on her blog, but, touched as I was to be asked, I wasn’t able to oblige at the time. Now I can, and, having spent some time wondering what <a href="https://twitter.com/MrsSymbols" target="_blank">@MrsSymbols</a> could possibly blog about that would suit the Renaissance Epicurean, a foodie with a special interest in Florentine art and the Medici family, a certain painting sprang to mind: Botticelli’s <i>The Wedding Feast</i> (1483), which I included in my book, <a href="http://www.saraband.net/themes/arts-architecture/60-the-hidden-life-of-renaissance-art" target="_blank">The Hidden Life of Renaissance Art: Secrets and Symbols in Great Masterpieces</a>, for @SarabandBooks, in 2007. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;"><i>The Wedding Feast, 1483, Sandro Botticelli, </i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;"><i>oil on canvas, private collection.</i></span></td></tr>
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Painted to mark the marriage of Giannozzo Pucci and Lucrezia Bini, and commissioned by either Giannozzo’s father, Antonio, or his godfather, Lorenzo de’ Medici (1449–92), the painting represents the culmination of a series of four depicting the story of Nastagio degli Onesti, as related by Boccaccio in The Decameron (1351–53). It’s a gorily compelling tale, featuring as it does a rejected suitor who literally took possession of a lady’s heart after the object of his desire had rejected his advances and declined to bestow it on him voluntarily. I was, moreover, intrigued by possible parallels between Giannozzo, the real-life bridegroom, and the fictional Nastagio, whose wedding feast, portrayed here, followed his initially reluctant bride’s acceptance of his marriage proposal. </div>
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The symmetry of the painting is pleasing, too, as is the somewhat theatrical vision of the parade of young men carrying an array of dishes. But I especially enjoy the symbolic references to Lorenzo de’ Medici within the painting: the Medici coat of arms at the top of the central column, for example, with its six red balls that may – or may not – originally have symbolised oranges. Another is the laurel trees that adorn the three pillars in the foreground, the laurel having featured in Lorenzo’s impresa, or personal emblem, perhaps as a play on his first name, which equates to Laurentius in Latin, while the laurel’s Latin name is Laurus. Illustrated in Paolo Giovio’s Dialogo dell’imprese militari et amorose (1574), this impresa includes two lions flanking a laurel tree, to which is attached a banner emblazoned with the motto ita et virtus (Latin for ‘So is virtue’), the implication being that, like laurel leaves, virtue is evergreen, or undying.* Equally eternal is the appreciation that cooks – and epicureans – have for the foliage of Laurus nobilis, bay leaves having been used to flavour food since time immemorial. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;"><i>Lorenzo de’ Medici’s laurel-tree impresa, f<br />rom Paolo Giovio’s Dialogo dell’imprese militari et amorose</i></span></td></tr>
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*As well as signifying immortality, the laurel can symbolise victory, amongst other concepts. For more, see: <a href="http://mrssymbols.blogspot.com/2011/02/cupids-leaden-arrows.html" target="_blank">Cupid's Leaden Arrows</a>.<br />
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Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-63415797162463325232012-01-02T03:04:00.000-08:002012-01-06T04:29:17.959-08:00The Function of Alchemical Imagery in the poetry of John DonneWhere the twenty-first century reader might think of alchemy as the process of transforming one metal state to another for profit, to the late medieval or early modern scholar it had several other meanings. Whilst the transformation of metals or other objects is one, others included the spiritual transformation of the base human body into a spiritually pure entity; or the use of unusual substances such as poison to enable the new forms of medicine pioneered by Paracelsus ; to developments in astronomy and astrology. Here the process of transformation or transmutation is central to the concept of alchemy, and most educated men would be familiar with the imagery, meaning and function of alchemy, even if they didn’t practice the chemical component of the experiments themselves.<br />
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To the renaissance poet, alchemy had many faces – whether it be satirised with comic effect, as in Ben Jonson’s <i>The Alchemist</i> - or in John Donne’s poetry it might provide a path to spiritual transformation through a complex exercise in alchemical allusion and wordplay. The text is coded to make it either comically incomprehensible jargon, or to encourage one to endeavour for meaning and intellect, a necessary function of spiritual development. However, that is not to say that Donne only utilised alchemy for the purpose for spiritual transformation – he too satirised alchemy and many of the poems might be considered intellectual exercises as appreciably as a spiritual treatise.<br />
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In order to explore this let's focus on two of Donne’s poems, examining the function of the corresponding alchemical imagery by which Donne seeks to spiritually enlighten and elevate the disposed reader.<br />
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Given the modern reader’s inability to fully comprehend renaissance alchemy, it is necessarily difficult for us to decode all alchemical imagery and meaning. As Edgar Hill Duncan points out, the tradition of alchemical satire is ‘quite different with those figures which make use of particulars of alchemical theory or practice, where the alchemical concepts serve to express outright as metaphors or to intensify as similes the thought-content of the lines. In each of these instances the value of the concept for Donne lies in its aptness for illustrating, explaining, or intensifying the idea which it embodies or to which it is juxtaposed.’ <br />
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At best we can interpret or decipher Donne’s alchemical imagery against the context of his overall meaning within a poem, and against the ‘mass of beliefs known as alchemy’ which can be ‘fairly transferred from its logical connection with that science to body forth or explain a concept in another real of though or knowledge which is the poet’s subject.’ In other words, against these constraints it is still possible to draw the parallels between the imagery, the standard definitions of alchemical metaphor, the conventional definitions of Christian metaphor and Donne’s overall poetic intention.<br />
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Within this context, the theme of rebirth and resurrection is apparent in <i>A Nocturnall upon S. Lucies Day</i>, and <i>The Resurrection, imperfect</i>. Here, in the manner of many other Renaissance schools of thought, alchemy has been appropriated for a Christian purpose, for the student educated in both classical, Christian and alchemical thought. <br />
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Donne matches the alchemical process of putrefaction which results in new life, with the Christian parallel; that of the resurrection of Christ. However, clearly these poems operate on many levels and there are other themes. In <i>S. Lucies Day</i> is also the theme of Nature, with the notion that all things have a time and a season. Frank Kermode suggests that <i>S. Lucies Day</i> is ‘incomprehensible’ without an understanding of alchemy, but I disagree. Although there are undoubtedly references to alchemy and alchemical equipment, given the above, at a more basic level the poem can operate as a verse on Nature, on the inevitability of death, and on the inexorable manner in which time moves forward, creating anew, and with Christian teaching one might divine resurrection and rebirth, leading to human resurrection and the hope of an afterlife. <br />
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This is particularly apparent in ‘the next world, that is, at the next Spring’ which brings together the themes of Christianity and Nature. However, I do accept that knowledge of alchemy enriches the reader with a third, equally regenerative reading, particularly in the following lines where Donne states:<br />
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For I am every dead thing, </div>
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In whom love wrought new Alchimie.</div>
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For his love did expresses</div>
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A quintessence even from nothingness,</div>
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From dull privations, and leane emptiness</div>
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He ruine’d mee, and I am re-begot</div>
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Of absence, darkness, death; things which are not. </div>
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Here Donne plays on the reversal of the usual creation process in alchemy.<br />
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In <i>Resurrection, Imperfect</i> , Donne represents the resurrection of Christ. The first half of the poem can be deciphered without knowledge of alchemy, with references to the Crucifixion, to the solar eclipse, to the resurrection of Christ and the Ascension. Halfway through, the poem takes on the distinct language of alchemy. Donne likens Christ to a mineral or gold, and the process of the resurrection to the process of transmutation in alchemy itself:<br />
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For these three daies become a mineral;</div>
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Hee was all gold when he lay downe, but rose</div>
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All tincture, and doth not alone dispose</div>
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Leaden and iron wills to good, but is</div>
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Of power to make even sinfull flesh like his.</div>
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Had one of those, whose credulous pietie</div>
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Thought, that a Soule might discerne and see</div>
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Goe from a body, ’at this sepulcher been,</div>
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And, issuing from the sheet, this body seen,</div>
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He would have justly though this body a soule,</div>
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If not of any man, yet of the whole. </div>
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In alchemical thought the sun could transmute minerals in the earth into gold, but here Christ was already gold when he was buried, and transmuted into tincture, normally used to purify other metals. Christ’s’ resurrection is a direction for man’s goal of spiritual resurrection.<br />
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Edgar Hill Duncan has a particularly interesting analysis of the poem in his essay, ‘Donne’s Alchemical Figures’, in which he states that: ‘[Donne] expounds the death and resurrection of Christ in terms of the alchemical death and resurrection of gold. Dying is a necessary preliminary to alchemical revivification, a dying which reduces to original elements.’ Here it is essential from an alchemical interpretation of the resurrection that the body of Christ undergo some form of decay in order to facilitate transformation – it is not enough for Christ to simply ascend to heaven. This is partly because before transformation can occur, purification must have taken place, both in Christian and alchemical terms. The decay of Christ forms part of this purification process, and this spiritual cleansing is required of Christians also.<br />
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In <i>Darke Hieroglyphicks</i> Linden states that ‘the death-resurrection motif inherent in alchemical theory is central to the conceit.’ He goes on to say that ‘“<i>Resurrection, imperfect</i>” relies on alchemy to convey Christian views of death, resurrection, and salvation… Christ is represented as the transmuting agent who, through his death, acquired the potency to purify the baser bodies that he chooses to touch’. <br />
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In both poems alchemy serves to add depth to the existing Christian interpretation of re-birth. Resurrection is really a spiritual belief; it is not tangible and relies exclusively on the beliefs of the individual. In adopting what was at the time a scientific approach, in the sense that alchemy was not considered arcane, or a pseudo-science, Donne might have offered some ‘scientific proof’ that the resurrection and afterlife were possible in reality as well as spirit. By citing alchemical examples Donne is able not only to contrast natural processes with conceptual ones, he is also able to code that message to give it some form of secrecy, requiring an effort to translate it. Only the devout and pure Christian in this sense can ‘decode’ the message in the poems and find spiritual renewal. <br />
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Alchemical imagery here serves to provide example, comparison, metaphor and both the code and cipher. The prize is not the conventional interpretation of the Philosopher’s Stone, but man’s soul transfigured by Divine Grace. Perhaps here the concept of the elixir, or balsam familiar in many alchemical texts might not be interpreted as the Balsam of the Elements or the Quintessence, but the spiritual quintessence of divine inspiration through the Holy Spirit.<br />
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Bibliography<br />
Abraham, L., <i>A Dictionary of Alchemical Imagery</i>: Introduction, pp xv-xxii, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2001)<br />
Abraham, L., <i>Marvell and Alchemy</i>, (Aldershot: Scholar Press, 1990)<br />
Donne, John, <i>The Complete English Poems</i>, ed. C. A. Patrides, (London: Everyman’s Library, 1991)<br />
Duncan, E. H., ‘Donne’s Alchemical Figures’ in <i>English Literary History</i> 9, (1942), pp 257-85<br />
Hayes, T. W., ‘Alchemical Imagery in John Donne’s “A Nocturnall upon S. Lucies Day”’ in <i>Ambix</i> 23 (1976), pp 55-62<br />
Linden, S. J., <i>Darke Hieroglyphicks</i>, (Kentucky: University Press of Kentucky, 1996)<br />
Mazzeo, J. A., <i>Renaissance and Seventeenth-Century Studies</i>:, Notes On John Donne’s Alchemical Imagery, pp 60-89, (Columbia: Columbia University Press, 1964)<br />
Roberts, G., <i>The Mirror of Alchemy,</i> (London: The British Library, 1994)<br />
Sadler, L. V., ‘Relations between Alchemy and Poetics in the Renaissance and Seventeenth Century, with Special Glances at Donne and Milton’ in <i>Ambix</i> 23 (1976), pp 69-76<br />
Walker, J. M., ‘John Donne’s “The Extasie” as an Alchemical Process’ in <i>English Language Notes</i> 20 (1982), pp 1-8<br />
Warlick, M. E., ‘The Domestic Alchemist: Women as Housewives in Alchemical Emblem’ in <i>Glasgow Emblem Studies</i>, Vol. 3, 1998<br />
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<br />Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-91273118481149500502012-01-01T05:56:00.000-08:002012-01-30T04:14:38.243-08:00The Identification of Jean de Dinteville in Holbein’s ‘The Ambassadors’, in 1890 – 1895<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">In the age of Twitter and Wikipedia, it's easy to forget that debates on artistic matters were often carried out via correspondence, or potentially in broadsheet newspapers such as the Times... It might take some considerable time for correspondents to review their peers comments, collate their thoughts, and respond accordingly. Of course there might often be overlap and confusion... No quick blog or tweet here... One such debate surrounded the identification of the sitters in Holbein's <i>The Ambassadors</i>:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">The painting <i>The Ambassadors</i>, by Hans Holbein the Younger, was acquired for the National collection in 1890 from the Earl of Radnor at Longford Castle, in whose family’s collection it had been since 1808-09<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[i]</span>.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">We know it had not been exhibited often, but do know that it was shown in the Royal Academy at Burlington House in 1873<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn2"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[ii]</span></span></a>. Its very unusual composition had ensured that it was already quite well known to London society, and its acquisition was greeted with mixed enthusiasm<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn3"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[iii]</span></span></a>. At £30,000, it was one of the most expensive acquisitions of the day, but a great deal of that money had come from private funding<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn4"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[iv]</span></span></a>.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">When the painting was put on display in the National Gallery in September of 1890<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn5"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[v]</span></span></a>, the initial excitement lay in the debate over the identity of the two men in the portrait, and in the meaning of the fish, or anamorphic skull, in the foreground of the panel.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">It is now widely believed that the two men are in fact Jean de Dinteville and George de Selve, and although references to the original painting referred to a MM. Selve<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn6"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[vi]</span></span></a>, the connection to George de Selve had not been made, and the name had been ignored.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">The traditional account of identity of the men, asserted by Ralph Wornum<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn7"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[vii]</span></span></a> and Alfred Woltman<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn8"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[viii]</span></span></a>, ventured that they were Sir Thomas Wyatt and his secretary John Leland, the antiquary. In August of 1890 J. C. Robinson had concurred with Alfred Woltman in <i>The Times</i> stating that ‘This attribution is, I think, most likely to be the true one’<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn9"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[ix]</span></span></a>, given the status of the men and their access to Henry VIII.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">The rationale behind the first attempts at naming the sitters rested primarily on the location of Holbein at the time of the portrait, and the fact that he was employed by Henry VIII - the assumption being that the sitters must be at Henry’s court, and therefore English. This was an entirely flawed assumption.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">At the point of its acquisition for the nation, various enthusiasts began to look at <i>The Ambassadors</i> in earnest, and to comment on the discrepancies between the original identification and elements of the painting. The person on the left appeared to be wearing the Order of St. Michael, a French honour at that time bestowed upon royalty and a few nobles, and his clothing was not typical of that found in England at the time. The painting also indicated the age of the sitters (on a dagger sheaf and a book), and this did not match that of Wyatt and Leland in 1533.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">The first person to correctly deduce that Jean de Dinteville was the ambassador on the left was Sydney Colvin of the British Museum, and he did so in <i>The Times</i>, on the very day that the pictures were first displayed in the National Gallery.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin examined pictures of Wyatt and found them wholly different to the figure on the left of <i>The Ambassadors</i>. He then examined the original provenance of the painting commenting that ‘’Sir J. C. Robinson … supposes (as Woltmann had supposed before him) that it received the name of “The Ambassadors” while at Longford.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">It was in point of fact traditionally known by that name in the 18th century, when it formed part of the collection of the French connoisseur J. B. Lebrun.’<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn10"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[x]</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;"> </span>He asserted correctly that the Order of St. Michael and the clothing being apparently French, the likely candidate would be a French ambassador at court, stating that ‘it so happens that in the several French Envoys who came to the Court of Henry VIII in this eventful year, 1533, the most important was exactly of the age required by the inscription in the picture.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">This was the Bailly of Troyes, Jean de Dinteville.’<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn11"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xi]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">In its lead on the unveiling of the paintings that day, <i>The Times</i> concurs saying that ‘On the most interesting and much-discussed question of the identity of the persons represented, we print below a letter from Sidney Colvin which, we venture to think, solves the problem as far as the chief Ambassador is concerned.’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Unfortunately Sidney Colvin dismissed the mention of MM. de Selve in the original Lebrun records, saying that ‘The above conjecture unluckily leaves as unsettled as ever the question of the second personage in the Longford picture. … Special students of the period will doubtless not be backward, when the new possession of the nation is once in its place, with suggestions for solving this second branch also of the problem which it presents.’ And so the search for the identity of the sitters began in earnest.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Within the month Charles Eastlake wrote to <i>The Times</i> disagreeing with Sidney Colvin on the basis that it need not be necessary to look abroad, as ‘Among the numerous envoys which Henry VIII sent to the Court of France, surely one or more may have returned decorated with this Order’.<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn12"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xii]</span></span></a> Eastlake thought it far more likely that the sitter was George Boleyn, Viscount Rocheford, brother to Queen Anne, and ambassador to the court of Francis I. The second sitter he suggested was William Paget, a friend of George Boleyn. However Eastlake’s attempt to put the ages of the sitters correctly against the painting does not succeed, and seems clumsy at best.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Two days later J. C. Robinson reversed his earlier agreement with Wornum and Woltmann, and came out in favour of Sidney Colvin’s hypothesis<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn13"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xiii]</span></span></a>. Given the rapid demise of George Boleyn, he thought it highly unlikely that he might be the sitter, and agreed with Colvin that the Order of St. Michael must have some bearing on the identification of the primary Ambassador.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Sidney Colvin replied to <i>The Times</i> within two weeks dismissing Charles Eastlake’s theory, stating that ‘that supposition is to my mind excluded by their appearance, the details of the dress and ornaments, and the character of the accessories, as well as by the French provenance and traditions of the picture and the absence of any English records concerning it’<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn14"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xiv]</span></span></a>. Colvin’s experience as a scholar of some understanding is here demonstrated by his thorough approach to eliminating any contrivance in suggestions of George Boleyn. However he himself is not above speculation and in the same article suggests that the second sitter, by a process of elimination, must be that of Nicholas Bourbon.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Whilst Colvin is able to demonstrate that the two men were friends, and that Bourbon had a number of characteristics which made him a suitable candidate, he does acknowledge that Bourbon’s age does not match that of the sitter on the right hand of the portrait. He tries to close down the argument, suggesting that ‘very strong arguments … will be need to prevent the picture henceforth taking its place in the National collection … as that of the poet-scholar, Nicholas Bourbon, and his friend the Ambassador, Jean de Dinteville’. Here Colvin allows himself to be persuaded by the same lack of documentary evidence that he criticised in Eastlake’s theory.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Between this proposal in October 1890 and December 1895, no few than three other courtiers are suggested as the ambassador on the left. In 1890 Elias Dexter<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn15"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xv]</span></span></a> proposed that the sitter must be William du Bellay, Lord of Longey (accompanied by his brother John). Dexter’s hypothesis is that because the sitters are apparently at least forty years of age, the inscriptions bearing their name must had been falsified after the painting was completed by Holbein. He also proposed that there must have been two versions of the painting, because the Lebrun engraving had a number of alterations to it in comparison with the original in The National Gallery, and that the likeness of the two brothers in existing works matched that of <i>The Ambassadors</i>. This self-published book is long on speculation, and short on actual corroborative evidence, a common feature of the debate.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">In August 1891 Walter Money<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn16"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xvi]</span></span></a> proposed that the sitter was Count Balthazar Castiglione, seemingly based solely on the fact that he had been awarded the Order of the Garter for doing good services for Henry VIII. Little or no real documentary evidence supports his claim.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">It is not until the 31st August, 1891 that further evidence is presented to support Sidney Colvin’s claims. On that date Edward Dillon wrote to <i>The Times </i>commenting that the newly cleaned painting now meant that names could be read on the terrestrial globe on the second shelf of the painting. One of the names newly revealed to the viewer was that of Polizy or Policy, the home of the Dinteville family estate. Edward Dillon wrote that ‘I think that the identification of the ambassador in Holbein’s picture with Jean de Dinteville, Seigneur of Polizy, may now be regarded as final. On the terrestrial globe from which its position may be regarded as an attribute of the left-hand figure, the following names of towns occur, and no others: - Paris, Lyons, Nuremburg, Venice, Rome and finally Polizy, all except the last important place’<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn17"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xvii]</span></span></a>.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Sidney Colvin responded two days later stating that ‘now that the cleaning of the surface has enabled these names to be clearly read, and that among them the obscure village of Polizy, in Burgundy, where Dinteville was born, is found inserted on equal terms with Paris, Lyons, and Bayonne (the only other French towns given), I venture to think with your correspondent that the correctness of the proposed identification must be regarded as placed beyond further doubt’.<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn18"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xviii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">However, the portrait was not completely identified as Jean de Dinteville until Mary Hervey’s definite work on the subject was detailed in <i>The Times</i> on the 7th December 1895<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_edn19"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xix]</span></span></a>. At that point Mary Hervey had tracked down a fragment of a parchment which identified both sitters, explicitly, and which matched the age of the sitters within the portrait. Hervey had come across the manuscript listed in a French bookseller’s catalogue, and recognising the significance of the mention of MM de Selve, a clue which had been completely ignored by all other scholars, had purchased the parchment. Once obtained she was able to completely identify the sitters, confirm that the information within the painting had indeed been put there by Holbein, and go into history as the person who identified the sitters in <i>The Ambassadors</i>.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Notes</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Because of the frequency with which some authors are noted here, and given the variety of their work, I have maintained the full publication details in each instance to avoid confusion.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[i]</span> For one account of the history of the painting between 1533 and 1900, please refer to Hervey, Mary F. S., <i>Holbein’s ‘Ambassadors’: The Picture and the Men</i> (London: G. Bell &amp; Sons, 1900), pp. 5-31.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[ii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See 'The Longford Pictures at the National Gallery', <i>The Times</i> [London], 11 September 1890, 6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[iii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> ‘A work of such calibre, this thirty thousand pounder, will certainly appeal to a considerable section of the British public, from whom we may expect very mixed opinions as to the value and merits of this newly-acquired treasure’, see Robinson, J. C., 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 19 August 1890, 10.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[iv]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> The painting was bought as part of a set of three, which cost a total of £55,000. ‘Messrs. N. Rothschild &amp; Sons, Lord Iveach, and Mr. Charles Cotes’ contributed £30,000 to the purchase. See Dickes, William F., <i>Holbein’s Celebrated Picture, Now Called ‘The Ambassadors’, Shown to be a Memorial of the Treaty of Nuremburg, 1532, and the Portray Those Princely Brothers, Counts of Palatine of the Rhine, Otto Henry … and Philippe</i> (etc.) (London: Cassell &amp; Co., 1903), pp. 8.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">The Times</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> stated that ‘The price that has been paid - £55,000 - is high, but perhaps not too high; and as the country has to pay less than half of it – the rest having being privately subscribed by generous donors – even the most severe of economists may look upon the purchase with satisfaction’. See 'The Longford Pictures at the National Gallery', <i>The Times</i> [London], 11 September 1890, 6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[v]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> <i>The Times</i> informed their readers that the three pictures would be displayed in the Umbrian room of the National Gallery, until a suitable home could be found for them. See 'The Longford Pictures at the National Gallery', <i>The Times</i> [London], 11 September 1890, 6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[vi]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> The caption recorded with an engraving made by Lebrun of <i>The Ambassadors</i> read ‘Celui dont on voit l’estampe offer les portraits de MM. de Selve et D’Avaux; l’un fut Ambassadeur a Venise, l’autre le fut dans le nord : ils sone accompagnes des attributes des arts qu’ils cultiaient. J’ai despuis vendu ce tableau pour l’Angleterre, ou il est maintenant; les figures sont de grandeur naturelle’. Not only did it name de Selve, but it correctly asserted that he had been an Ambassador to Venice, although this occurred after the painting was made. It also asserted that the painting had been sold into England, where it now was. See Hervey, Mary F. S., <i>Holbein’s ‘Ambassadors’: The Picture and the Men</i> (London: G. Bell &amp; Sons, 1900), pp. 5-6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[vii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See Wornum, Ralph N., <i>Some account of the Life and Works of Hans Holbein </i>(London: 1867), pp. 275.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[viii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See Woltmann, Alfred, <i>Holbein and His Time</i> (London, 1872), pp. 360-361.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[ix]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See Robinson, J. C., 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 19 August 1890, 10.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[x]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Pictures at the National Gallery', <i>The Times</i> [London], 11 September 1890, 6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xi]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Pictures at the National Gallery', <i>The Times</i> [London], 11 September 1890, 6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> Eastlake, Charles, 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 7 October 1890, 7.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xiii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See Robinson, J. C., 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 9 October 1890, 9.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xiv]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 20 October 1890, 3.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xv]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;"> </span>See Dexter, Elias, 'Holbein’s "Ambassadors" Identified, and other Interesting Matters Relating to the Picture Lately Added to the National Gallery', (London: Published by the author, 1890).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xvi]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> See Money, Walter, 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 22 August 1891, 11.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xvii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> Dillon, Edward, 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 31 August 1891, 10.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xviii]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 1 September 1891, 5.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=3273731185917130785#_ednref"><span style="line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #009900;">[xix]</span></span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"> Hervey, Mary F. S., 'Holbein's "Ambassadors" - The Solution', <i>The Times</i> [London], 7 December 1895, 13.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Bibliography</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Primary Texts:</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Ainger, Alfred, 'The Skull in the Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 21 August 1890, 6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Armstrong, Walter, ‘”The Ambassadors” by Hans Holbein the Younger’, <i>Portfolio</i> (1890), 241-2.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Brown-Borthwick, R., 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 22 August 1891, 11.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Burton, F. W., 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 7 July 1891, 12.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Burton, F. W., 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 8 August 1891, 9.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Pictures at the National Gallery', <i>The Times</i> [London], 11 September 1890, 6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 20 October 1890, 3.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 1 September 1891, 5.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Holbein and the Order of St. Michael', <i>The Times</i> [London], 11 December 1891, 13.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Holbein and the Order of St. Michael', <i>The Times</i> [London], 31 December 1891, 7.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin, Sydney, 'The Longford Castle Pictures at the National Gallery', <i>Art Journal</i>, new series (1891), 1-6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin, Sydney, 'Holbein's "Ambassadors"', <i>The Times</i> [London], 10 December 1895, 12.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Colvin, Sydney, <i>Burlington Magazine</i>, 2, (1903), 367-69.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dexter, Elias, 'Holbein’s "<i>Ambassadors" Identified, and other Interesting Matters Relating to the Picture Lately Added to the National Gallery</i>', (London: Published by the author, 1890).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F, 'The Mystery of Holbein's "Ambassadors", <i>The Magazine of Art, 15</i> (1891-92), pp.140.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F., 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 17 October 1891, 10.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F., 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 24 November 1891, 4.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F., 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 28 December 1891, 6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F., '"The Two Ambassadors" by Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 14 May 1894, 3.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F, 'The Mystery of Holbein's "Ambassadors": A Solution.' Part I, <i>The Magazine of Art, 15</i> (1895), 1-6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F, 'The Mystery of Holbein's "Ambassadors": A Solution.' Part II, <i>The Magazine of Art, 15</i> (1895), 37-4.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F, 'The Mystery of Holbein's "Ambassadors": A Solution Re-Considered', <i>The Magazine of Art, 15</i> (1895), 275-80.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F., 'Holbein's "Ambassadors"', <i>The Athenaeum, Journal of English and Foreign Literature, Science, the Fine Arts, Music and the Drama</i>, No. 3561 (Jan. 25, 1896), 125-26.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dickes, William F., <i>Holbein’s Celebrated Picture, Now Called ‘The Ambassadors’, Shown to be a Memorial of the Treaty of Nuremburg, 1532, and the Portray Those Princely Brothers, Counts of Palatine of the Rhine, Otto Henry … and Philippe</i> (etc.) (London: Cassell &amp; Co., 1903).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dillon, Edward, 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 31 August 1891, 10.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Eastlake, Charles, 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 7 October 1890, 7.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Eastlake, Charles, 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 18 August 1891, 7.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Eastlake, Charles, 'The Distorted Skull in the Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 8 December 1891, 14.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Hervey, Mary F. S., 'Holbein's "Ambassadors" - The Solution', <i>The Times</i> [London], 7 December 1895, 13.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Hervey, Mary F. S., <i>Holbein’s ‘Ambassadors’: The Picture and the Men</i> (London: G. Bell &amp; Sons, 1900).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Marshall, John, 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 20 October 1890, 3.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Money, Walter, 'The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 22 August 1891, 11.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Robinson, J. C., 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 19 August 1890, 10.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Robinson, J. C., 'The Longford Castle Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 9 October 1980, 9.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">The Longford Holbein', <i>The Times</i> [London], 7 August 1891, 5.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Woltmann, Alfred, <i>Holbein and His Time</i> (London, 1872).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Wornum, Ralph N., <i>Some account of the Life and Works of Hans Holbein </i>(London: 1867), pp. 275.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Secondary Texts:</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Ainsworth, Maryan, ‘“Paternes for Physioneamyes”: Holbein’s Portraiture Reconsidered’, <i>Burlington Magazine</i>, 1132 (1990), 173-86.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Aked, C. K., ‘The Ambassadors’, <i>Antiquarian Horology</i>, Winter (1976), 173-86.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Anson, E. Mary, ‘Holbein’s “The Ambassadors”’, <i>The Listener</i>, 26 January 1961.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Baltrusaitis, Jurgis, trans. Walter, J. Strachan, <i>Anamorphic Art</i> (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1977), pp. 91-114</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Baynes-Cope, A. David, ‘The Investigation of a Group of Globes’, <i>Imago Mundi</i>, 33 (1981), 9-20.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Buck, Stephanie and Jochen Sander, <i>Hans Holbein the Younger, Painter at the Court of Henry VIII</i>, book published to accompany the exhibition <i>Hans Holbein 1497/98 -1543</i>. The Mauritshuis, The Hague. 16 August – 16 November 2003. (London: Thames &amp; Hudson, 2003).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Charlton, Kenneth, ‘Holbein’s “Ambassadors” and Sixteenth Century Education’, <i>Journal of the History of Ideas</i>, 21 (1960), 99-109.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Dekker, Elly and Kristen Lippencott: ‘The Scientific Instruments in Holbein’s Ambassadors: A Re-Examination’, <i>Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes</i>, 62 (1999), 93-125.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Drinkwater, Peter I., <i>The Sundials of Nicholaus Kratzer</i> (Shipton-on-Stour: Published by the author, 1993).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Foister, Susan, Ashok Roy and Martin Wyld, <i>Making and Meaning: Holbein’s Ambassadors</i> (London: The National Gallery, 1997).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Foster, Richard, '"The Ambassadors": Standing on Shifting Ground', <i>The Listener</i>, 6 November 1986, 12-13.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Foster, Richard, <i>Patterns of Thought: The Hidden Meaning of the Great Pavement of Westminster Abbey</i> (London: Butler &amp; Tanner, 1991).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Grossman, F., ‘Holbein Studies’, <i>The Burlington Magazine</i> 93 (1951), 111-114.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Hake, Henry M., ‘The English Historic Portrait: Document and Myth’, <i>Proceedings of the British Academy</i> 29 (1943), 136-138.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Hans Holbein: Paintings, Prints, and Reception</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">, (Studies in the History of Art: Center for Advanced Study in the Visual Arts Symposium Papers), ed. Mark Roskill and John Oliver Hand (Washington: National Gallery of Art, Washington, 2001).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Holman, Thomas S., ‘Holbein’s Portraits of the Steelyard Merchants: An Investigation’, <i>Metropolitan Museum Journal</i>, 14, (New York, 1980), 139-59.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Jardine, Lisa, <i>Worldly Goods: A New History of the Renaissance</i>, (New York and London: Macmillan, 1996), pp. 302-06 and 425-36.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Kemp, Martin, <i>The Science of Art: optical themes in western art from Brunelleschi to Seurat</i> (London and New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1990).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Michael, Erika, <i>Hans Holbein the Younger: A Guide to Research</i> (New York and London: Garland Publishing, 1997).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">North, John, <i>The Ambassadors’ Secret: Holbein and the World of the Renaissance</i> (London and New York: Hambledon and London, 2002).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Pächt, Otto, ‘Holbein and Kratzer as Collaborators’, <i>Burlington Magazine</i>, 84 (1994), 134-39.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Parshall, Peter, ‘Some Visual Paradoxes in Northern Renaissance Art’, <i>Wascana Review (Renaissance Issue)</i>, (Spring, 1974), 97-104.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Piper, David, ‘Holbein’s Ambassadors<i>’</i>, <i>The Listener, </i>12 January 1961, 68-70.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Ramussen, Mary, ‘The Case of the Flutes in Holbein’s <i>The Ambassadors’, Early Music</i> (February, 1995), 114-23.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Samuel, E. R., ‘Death in a Glass: A New View of Holbein’s <i>Ambassadors’, Burlington Magazine</i>, 115 (1963), 436-41.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Schneider, Norbert, 'Hans Holbein the Younger: The French Ambassadors to the English Court', in <i>The Art of the Portrait</i>, (Cologne, 1992), pp.118-21.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Smith, Alistair, 'The Ambassadors', <i>The Antique Collector</i>, No. 9, (November, 1974), 42-45.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Stebbins, F. A., ‘The Astronomical Instruments in Holbein’s <i>Ambassadors</i>’. <i>Journal of the Royal Astronomical Society of Canada</i>, 56 (1962), 45-52.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Villiers, G. H., <i>Hans Holbein the Younger: The Ambassadors in the National Gallery, London. The Gallery Books 1</i>8, (London: P. Lund Humphries &amp; Co., 1947).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Wallis, Helen, 'Globes in England up to 1660', <i>The Geographical Magazine</i>, 35, No. 5, (September, 1962), 267-79.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Watson, F. J. B., <i>Burlington Magazine</i>, 106 (1964), 135-6.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Wilson, K. J., ‘More and Holbein: The Imagination of Death’, <i>Sixteenth Century Journal </i>7 (April 1976), 51-58.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Wind, Edgar, ‘Studies in Allegorical Portraiture I’, <i>Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes</i>, I (1937), 138-62.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Wood, Christopher, ‘”Curious Pictures” and the Art of Description’, <i>Word &amp; Image</i>, II/4, (1995), 332-52.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Wyld, Martin, ‘The Restoration History of Holbein’s <i>Ambassadors</i>’, <i>National Gallery Technical Bulletin</i>, 19 (1998), pp. 4-25.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;">Zwingenberger, Jeanette, <i>The Shadow of Death in the Work of Hans Holbein the Younger</i> (Bournemouth: Parkston, 1999).</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-54063139620236965822011-07-06T03:54:00.000-07:002013-05-14T01:16:59.417-07:00The impact of ‘hieroglyphics’ on the allegorical art of Renaissance Italy<div>
The Renaissance Humanists quest for the recovery of ancient ‘truths’ and for a greater understanding of God didn’t only find definition through the Renaissance reclamation of ancient texts, artistic styles and architecture. Renaissance humanists were interested in a variety of antique modes of knowledge, from the rituals and numerology of Cabbala; the translation of classic texts; the study of natural magic in, for example, alchemy (and again Cabbala); and also through the study of symbols such as Egyptian hieroglyphs.</div>
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In order to examine the general impact of hieroglyphics and the resulting impact on Renaissance art, it is first necessary to understand how and why hieroglyphs became so important, and what they meant to their main sponsor during the Renaissance - the humanists and neo-Platonists.<br />
<a href="http://draft.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3273731185917130785" title="Where the neo-Platonist sought to uncover truths, it is inevitable that any language which apparently expressed the thoughts of God directly would interest them. Liselotte Dieckmann agrees that “It is not accidental that most of the passages under consideration are intimately connected with Platonism and its traditions … The problems of the relationship between matter and spirit, appearance and reality, outward form and true meaning, tangibility and idea, constitute the basic problems of all Platonic thinkers, in metaphysical as well as in aesthetic considerations. It is in this contact that we will find the hieroglyphical thinkers.” Dieckmann, L., Hieroglyphics: The History of a Literary Symbol, (St Louis: Washington University Press, 1970), p. 2."><b>[1]</b></a><br />
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We can then explore more specific artistic examples of hieroglyphics in commemorative medal; print; portraiture; and emblems.<br />
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There are several ways in which hieroglyphs became known to Renaissance scholars. The Roman Empire had of course stretched as far as Egypt, and a number of Egyptian artefacts had been returned to Rome. These included sphinxes and obelisks, which incorporated hieroglyphs in their design, though, in fact, the most often cited example of the famous obelisk standing in St Peter’s Square contains no hieroglyphs. <a href="http://draft.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3273731185917130785" title="Wittkower, R., ‘Hieroglyphics in the Early Renaissance’, Allegory and the Migration of Symbols, (London: Thames and Hudson, 1977; repr. 1987), p 114. “In the course of time Rome had more than forty-two obelisks, twelve of which survive to this day… Nobody interfered with this obelisk standing next to the old basilica of St. Peter’s, the centre of Christianity.”"><b>[2]</b></a><br />
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However, unbeknownst to Renaissance scholars, Roman artists had also produced their own imitations of hieroglyphics, and examples existed in Rome, mixed with the Egyptian originals. These were incorrectly assumed to be of Egyptian origin, and their designs were sometimes copied as genuine. Extant examples include the obelisk at the Piazza Trinita dei Monti (known as the Sallustian); the obelisk in the Pincio Hill’s Gardens made by Emperor Hadrian; and the obelisk in the Piazza Navona [<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">3</span>]. There is also the surviving Roman temple frieze now in the Capitoline Museum, which inspired the Renaissance copies, to be discussed later.<br />
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In response to the Egyptian artefacts brought into Italy, other examples of Egyptian structures began to appear. In the Mosaics of San Marco in Venice, pyramids were shown as Joseph’s granaries[iv], and pyramids were also incorporated into tomb monuments in Bologna.[v]<br />
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In addition, the ever popular Physiologus, whilst not strictly containing Egyptian hieroglyphs, kept alive the notion of Egyptian symbolism.<br />
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As well as the visual examples, the humanists had translated a number of classical texts which cited Egyptian wisdom and hieroglyphs, putting Egyptian knowledge on an almost exalted level. Poggio Bracciolini had translated Diodorus describing the wonders of Egypt, and Nicolo dei Nicoli had copied Ammianus Marcellinus, who had written in the fourth century of his trip to Egypt and the marvels he’d seen. Herodotus too had written that “the Egyptians … have made themselves much the most learned of any nation of which I have experience”, (Histories ii. 77), and that “The names of nearly all the gods have been known in Egypt from the beginning of time”, (Histories ii. 50).<br />
[vi]<br />
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When in 1419 Cristoforo Buondelmonte discovered a manuscript on Andros, apparently a description and explanation of Egyptian hieroglyphics by Horapollo[vii], [viii], [ix], he sent it to his friends Nicoli and Bracciolini expecting it to pique their interest. Divided into two books, the original is thought to have been written in Egypt in the fourth or fifth century, and translated in this instance into Greek by the unknown Philippos. For the first time Renaissance humanists felt as though they might truly understand the extant Egyptian remains in Rome and scattered elsewhere. (The hieroglyphs in the first book whilst not entirely accurate, generally hold true and are now thought to be original to Horapollo. The second book is thought to contain later additions accompanying the Greek translation, and the examples generally don’t bear any resemblance to Egyptian hieroglyphics).<br />
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Some years later in the early 1460’s, Marsilio Ficino, leader of the Platonic Academy in Florence established in 1439 by Cosimo de Medici, translated a text thought to be by the Egyptian sage, Hermes Trismegistus[x]. Hermes Trismegistus had been known to scholars throughout the medieval period[xi], and was denounced by Augustine in chapters 23-26 of the City of God.<br />
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Ficino and the other Renaissance Neo-Platonists were convinced that writers such as Plato and Hermes Trismegistus had in some way pre-figured Christ and were to be reclaimed into the Christian corpus - it is therefore no wonder that Egypt seemed to take on such significance[xii]. Erik Iversen states that ‘According to Ficino, Hermes Trismegistus was a sage of the Egyptians, a contemporary or maybe even a predecessor of Moses. He had attained a knowledge of things surpassing even that which was revealed to the Hebrew prophets, and comparable only to that of the Evangelists. Pythagoras had become acquainted with his teachings in Egypt, and through his intermission they had been transmitted to Plato who was a student of Egyptian wisdom himself, and had eventually based his own philosophy on the doctrines of Hermes. Egyptian wisdom, Neo-Platonic philosophy, and the humanistic studies became in this way consecutive links in an unbroken chain of tradition, joined together and united with Christianity by their common aim: the knowledge and revelation of God’,[xiii] and this view is born out by others.[xiv] Some critics disagree with this notion of a continuous flow from one to the other, but in any case Ficino clearly believed there was a level of continuity in the intention of the texts.[xv]<br />
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Ficino included Pimander in the Corpus Hermeticum, a collection of hermetic writings, but had no idea that in fact the text post-dates Christ, referring obliquely back to him rather than prophesising Christ. However, such was his standing that in 1488 Hermes Trismegistus was included in the mosaic pavement of Sienna Cathedral and is there cited as a contemporary of Moses (see Fig. 1). He was also a prominent figure in alchemical writings, where his writings were quoted, and his image re-created [see Fig. 2].<br />
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In 1492 Ficino translated Plotinus’s Enneads into Latin. In it Plotinus states that “‘The Egyptian sages … drew pictures and carved one picture for each thing in their temples, thus making manifest the description of that thing. Thus each picture was a kind of understanding and wisdom and substance and given all at once, and not discursive reasoning and deliberation.’ To which Ficino added the following gloss, ‘The Egyptian Priests did not use individual letters to signify mysteries, but whole images of plants, trees and animals, because God has knowledge of things not through a multiplicity of thought processes, but rather as a simple and firm form of the thing.’” Both quotes are taken from Rudolf Wittkower’s ‘Hieroglyphics in the Early Renaissance’.[xvi], [xvii], [xviii]<br />
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Wittkower goes on to add that “In other words, in Ficino’s exposition the image does not simply represent the concept, it embodies it. If one could only decipher hieroglyphs, one would have access not only to many ancient mysteries, but above all to the secret of how to express the essence of an idea, its platonic form, as it were, perfect and complete in itself, by means of an image. So the humanists of the 15th century turned for enlightenment to the ancient writers”.<br />
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In a letter to John of Hungary, Ficino states that “the ancient tradition of theologians was to shroud divine mysteries in the numbers and forms of mathematics as well as in the images of poetry. At length Plotinus stripped Theology of these coverings and, as Porphyry and Proclus bear witness, he was the first and only one to penetrated, by divine inspiration, the secrets of the ancients”[xix]<br />
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These notions lie at the heart of the Humanists thinking on hieroglyphics – that somehow the image represented something sacred, something to be discovered, translated and utilised. It also met with the Renaissance notion of ‘the eye of the mind, that there is a certain realism between the eye of the body and the eye of the mind’[xx] and contributed to Ficino’s belief that the Egyptians had been privy to some secret knowledge, not yet revealed, which was to be uncovered for the Christian faith.<br />
<br />
Leon Battista Alberti also came to the same understanding. Wittkower quotes from the Eighth Book of his Ten Books on Architecture: “The Egyptians employed symbols in the following manner: they carved an eye, by which they understood God; a vulture for nature; a Bee for King; a circle for Time… the manner of expressing their sense which they used on these occasions, by symbols, they thought must always be understood by learned men of all nations, to whom alone they were of the opinion that things of moment were fit to be communicated”. Again there is this belief that an understanding of hieroglyphs will only be available to the initiated, to the erudite man.<br />
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In Asclepius, from the Corpus Hermeticum, we find “Do you know, Asclepius, that Egypt is an image of heaven or to speak more exactly, in Egypt all the operations of the powers which rule and work in heaven have been transferred to earth below? Nay it should rather be said that the whole Kosmos dwells in this our land as in its sanctuary”[xxi]<br />
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Of course we know that hieroglyphs are in fact a phonetic language or alphabet, but because Egypt had undergone a series of incursions and occupations, the hieroglyphic language had all but died out in the fourth century. During this period it was known and practiced principally by the priests, which confirmed in the minds of those writing later that it was a form of secret communication with God.<br />
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As I have already mentioned, scholars such as Pico della Mirandola were working on Hebrew texts and the Cabbala, particularly the Sefer Yetzira (the Book of Creation)[xxii], with others trying to re-discover Adam’s sacred form of communication with the angels. Whilst clearly the Cabbala and Hermetic writings do not “meet”, it is possible to see that Ficino and Pico were working towards a common goal, albeit from different sources. Both sources seemed to point to hieroglyphs as a potential key to the puzzle.[xxiii]<br />
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In this context, the Classical interpretation of hieroglyphics seemed perfectly logical to the Renaissance Humanists - they saw no reason to question the interpretation of the image as a complete and secret symbol. Combined with the rogue and indecipherable Roman examples, the false examples in the Hieroglyphica, and the incorrect dating of Hermes Trismegistus’ Pimander, we can see how a number of contributing errors led to the mistaken understanding of hieroglyphics. The prevailing view that hieroglyphic symbols encapsulated a complete idea in each image survived until they were finally translated by Champollion, using as his key the surviving Christian Coptic texts in Egypt.<br />
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It is against this background that we should examine a few instances of Renaissance hieroglyphics.<br />
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Some of the best known examples of hieroglyphics are those used on two commemorative medals for Alberti. Wittkower states that “There is no doubt that the Renaissance medal was an important vehicle for the communication of esoteric pictographs… they were made for a small circle, and the ideas expressed by them were meant to remain dark and mysterious to the public at large.” Most importantly he says “They were a kind of priestly currency, the reserve of the few – just as in their view the Egyptian hieroglyphs had been a secret of the sacerdotal caste”[xxiv]. Again the prevailing view is that hieroglyphs should be kept a secret language, available only to a select coterie of ‘worthy’ men.[xxv]<br />
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Alberti used a winged eye hieroglyph below what is regarded as a self-portrait, dated 1438 [Fig. 3]. But this emblem is also shown on the reverse of Matteo de’ Pasti’s medal of Alberti. Here the emblem is joined by the expression “What then?”. Scholars continue to debate Alberti’s intention - he had already spoken of the eye as being the symbol of God’s omniscience, and Wittkower has the quote as appearing to come from Cicero[xxvi]. Douglas Lewis states that “In this emblem a human eye – understood by association to be the artist’s own – is born aloft by the wings of a raptor, a falcon or an eagle, to a height from which the entire universe is visible, The eye not only sees all, it is also all powerful, for the thunderbolts of Jupiter are grafted onto its end. Through his art, the new, all-sing, humanist artist wields a potentially godlike power”[xxvii]. In this context Lewis concludes that the motto when accompanying the emblem should be read as “what then, or what next? - implying that there is nothing that cannot be imagined or attempted”[xxviii]. However other readings exist – some critics believe that the motto refers to Alberti’s illegitimate birth – that he is saying in effect “so what?”. I think it is precisely this ambiguity which appeals to Alberti – the winged eye may be read in many different ways – depending upon the reader, its meaning remains obscure.<br />
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Textual examples also had a profound impact on the study of hieroglyphs. In 1499 Francesco Colonna’s Hypnerotomachia Polifili was published in Venice by Aldus. A very complicated romance, it includes a number of different languages and styles, from Tuscan, Latin, Arabic, Greek, Hebrew, Chaldean to Egyptian Hieroglyphs. Except that the hieroglyphs copied in the Hypnerotomachia, which are of particular concern to us, are modelled on a Roman temple frieze which had existed in the San Lorenzo fuori le mura. It had been copied by others, including Mantegna, but Colonna used the hieroglyphs in a very unique way. What is perhaps surprising to modern readers is that Renaissance scholars didn’t seek just to understand and imitate the extant Egyptian hieroglyphs. On the contrary, they seem to have applied the technique in an innovative sense to create their own hieroglyphs.[xxix]<br />
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Colonna was convinced that not only was he able to string together some meaning for existing hieroglyphs, including his translation of the base of a crypt, but also that by linking together new ideographs by means of, say a ribbon, that he could create new sentences which might be translated by the modern reader [see Figs 4-12]. Again Colonna didn’t understand the system to be phonetic, but along with other scholars though them a complete ideogram. However, Diekmann states that “from the moment of the publication of the Hypnerotomachia, Renaissance art became flooded with hieroglyphs. Lionardo, Mantegna, Pintrucchio, Giolio Romano, Durer, to name only a few, delighted in this fashion.”[xxx]<br />
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In portraiture, hieroglyphics were used by Sebastiano del Piombo in his Portrait of Andrea Doria, dated 1526 [Fig. 13]. Doria was an important sea captain who came to the aid of Clement VII in defence against the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. According to George Gorse, Clement VII “in effect sealed the personal and contractual relationship between Clement and his Captain of the Sea. Apparently on the initiative of the pope, the portrait made a formal declaration in humanistic terms of the admiral’s condotta, his military contract, and of this alliance, to be displayed within the Vatican palace and near to the pope, as a sign of personal affection”[xxxi]. The hieroglyphs in the portrait reflect Clement VII’s interest in hermetic humanism “which purported to ‘uncover’ Egyptian ‘sacred knowledge’ and the hidden order of Nature – that is, the secrets of Creation understood by Adam before the Fall”[xxxii]. Many of the examples are shown in the Hypnerotomachia Polifili, and the temple frieze discussed, now in the Museo Capitolino. The symbols are clearly meant to represent the skills ideally found in a sea captain: “discipline, steadfastness, caution, prudence, and fortitude”[xxxiii] Ironically Doria subsequently left the patronage of Clement VII and defected to Charles V, taking his portrait with him.<br />
<br />
In each of these examples the principle stated earlier holds true – the meaning of the message is obscure, but not illegible. For the educated reader familiar with the translations made by Ficino and others, and aware of the hieroglyphs in Horapollo’s Hieroglyphica, and Colonna’s Hypnerotomachia, the text can be deciphered. The key is a proper understanding of intention.<br />
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However by the time we reach Alciato’s Emblemata, circulated in 1521, but first printed in 1531, the nature of the image had changed. For the first time the intention is to elucidate, not conceal, meaning. This marks a significant alteration in the way in which images of this nature had been used – if you can read, the meaning of the symbols in now available to you. Although this point is made by several scholars, most forget to point out that the illustrations to the Emblemata were only added in later additions. Whilst some of the symbols used have been taken directly from Horapollo and the Hypnerotomachia, others are taken from different sources[xxxiv]. The illustrator is unknown, and Alciati was not sure about the inclusion of images as being necessary to meaning of the motto. What is clear is that the more popular versions of the Emblemata did include the illustrations, and were translated into and circulated all over Europe. The text went on to have a major impact on renaissance art and literature, and is still published today. In addition we might consider other forms of visual symbols, such as imprese, rebuses, all of which might be considered to have been influenced by, if not have stemmed from, Egyptian hieroglyphs.<br />
<br />
The overwhelming question remains, why did hieroglyphs appeal so directly to Renaissance Humanists? We have already considered a number of reasons. Humanists were interested in seeking the essential ‘truth’ of Christianity. They believed that although Christ was unknown to classical writers, a number of their texts clearly, to their mind, pre-figured him. Although the Church condemned a number of these classical sources, scholars such as Ficino and Pico believed they should be re-incorporated into the Christian corpus. Some texts were later to be shown to post-date Christ, such as those of Hermes Trismegistus, but there seemed to be some essential Christian truth in the writings of, for example Plato. It is for this reason that the Humanists felt compelled to view the ideographs of the Egyptians in the same way – surely these were also the secret communications of God? They may have predated Christ, but they surely contained some essential message relating to Christianity?<br />
<br />
Interestingly, where the Humanists sought the truth, they also sought to conceal it from all but the enlightened. Where paintings contained allegories designed to obscure meaning from all but the initiated, hieroglyphs might also be employed for the same intention. Alberti’s medal is still not clear to us today – is it secular or religious, or both? What is clear is that hieroglyphics had far-reaching affect on all cultures which came across them, way beyond their loss of meaning between the fourth and eighteenth centuries - but nowhere was as creative with hieroglyphs as the Renaissance period, which created its own language of ideographs and which influenced several other areas of specialisation, such as emblems, rebuses, and imprese. The humanist’s understanding of hieroglyphs all but died when Champollion discovered the true nature of hieroglyphs, and unlocked for the first time the ancient dead language. However, if left us with a rich vein of humanist and neo-platonic exploration and creativity.<br />
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This piece was written in 2006 - the bibliography <i>will not</i> be up-to-date.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Bibliography:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Aldred, C., Review of ‘The Myth of Egypt and Its Hieroglyphs in European Tradition’, <i>The Burlington Magazine</i>, Vol. 105, No. 721 (April, 1963), 172</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Barasch, M., ‘Renaissance Hieroglyphics’ in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Hieroglyphen, Stationen einer anderen abendlandishchen Grammatologie,</i> (Munich, Germany: Wilhem Fink Verlag) </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Caldwell, D., ‘The Paragone between Word and Image in Impresa Literature’, <i>Journal of Warburg and Courtauld Institutes</i>, Vol., 63 (2000), 277-286</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dannenfeldt, K., ‘The Renaissance and the Pre-Classical Civilisations’, <i>Journal of the History of Ideas</i>, Vol. 12, No. 4 (Oct., 1952), 435-449</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dieckmann, L., <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Hieroglyphics: The History of a Literary Symbol</i>, (St Louis: Washington University Press, 1970)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Elsky, M., ‘George Herbert’s Pattern Poems and the Materiality of Language: A New Approach to Renaissance Hieroglyphics’, <i>English Literary History</i>, Vol. 50, No. 2 (Summer, 1983), 245-260</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ficino, M., <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Letters of Marsilio Ficino</i>, Volume 7, (London: Shepheard-Walwyn, 2003)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Goldscheider, L., <i>Unknown Renaissance portraits: Medals of Famous Men and Women of the XV and XVI Centuries</i> (London: Phaidon Press, 1952)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Gorse, G. L., ‘Augustan Mediterranean Iconography and Renaissance Hieroglyphics at the Court of Clement VII: Sebastiano de Piombo’s <i>Portrait of Andrea Doria</i>’ <i>The Pontificate of Clement VII: History, Politics, Culture</i>, Ed. K. Gouwens and S. E. Reiss, (Aldershot: Ashgate Publishing, 2005)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Herodotus, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Histories</i> (Harmondsworth: Penguin Classics, 1972)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hill, G., <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Medals of the Renaissance</i> (London: British Museum Publications, 1920, repr. 1978)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Iversen, E., <i>The Myth of Egypt and it Hieroglyphs in European Tradition</i> (Copehagen: GEC GAD Publishers, 1961)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Magee, G. A.,<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Hegel and the Hermetic Tradition </i>(New York: Cornell University Press, 2001)<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Panofsky, E., <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Renaissance and Renascences in Western Art</i> (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1939, reprint)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Panofsky, E., <i>Studies in Iconology: Humanistic Themes in the Art of the Renaissance</i> (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1939, reprint) </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Scher, S., <i>The Currency of Fame: Portrait Medals of the Renaissance</i> (London Thames and Hudson, 1994)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Seznec, J., <i>The Survival of the Pagan Gods: The Mythological Tradition and Its Place in Renaissance Humanism and Art</i> (Princeton: Princeton University Press, repr. 1995) </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tervarent, de G., Review of ‘The Hieroglyphics of Horapollon’, <i>The Burlington Magazine</i>, Vol.94, No. 589 (April, 1952), 122-123</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Volkmann, L. von., <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Hieroglyphik und Emblematik bei Giorgio Vasari</i> (Leipzig: Hiersemann 1923)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wind, E., <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pagan Mysteries in the Renaissance</i> (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1958, repr. 1980)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wittkower, R., ‘Hieroglyphics in the Early Renaissance’, <i>Allegory and the Migration of Symbols</i>, (London: Thames and Hudson, 1977; repr. 1987)</div>
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List of Figures:<br />
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Fig. 1 Hermes Trismegistus in the mosaic pavement of the Sienna Duomo, http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://web.axelero.hu/dob10638/clipart/hermes_mercurius_trismegistus_siena_cathedral.jpg&imgrefurl=http://web.axelero.hu/dob10638/english/emerald.htm&h=736&w=746&sz=140&tbnid=yJRi7koMPTLeRM:&tbnh=138&tbnw=140&hl=en&start=2&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsiena%2Bcathedral,%2Bhermes%2Btrismegistus%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN<br />
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Fig. 2 Hermes Trismegistus from D. Stolcius von Stolcenbeerg, Viridarium chymicum, Frankfurt, 1624<br />
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Fig. 3 Alberti’s medal, taken from Scher, S., The Currency of Fame: Portrait Medals of the Renaissance (London Thames and Hudson, 1994), p. 42<br />
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Fig. 4-12 Examples of hieroglyphs used in the Colonna ‘Hypnerotomachia Polifili’.<br />
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Fig. 13 The Portrait of Andrea Doria, from Gorse, G. L., ‘Augustan Mediterranean Iconography and Renaissance Hieroglyphics at the Court of Clement VII: Sebastiano de Piombo’s Portrait of Andrea Doria’ The Pontificate of Clement VII: History, Politics, Culture, Ed. K. Gouwens and S. E. Reiss, (Aldershot: Ashgate Publishing, 2005)<br />
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Notes:<br />
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[1] Where the neo-Platonist sought to uncover truths, it is inevitable that any language which apparently expressed the thoughts of God directly would interest them. Liselotte Dieckmann agrees that “It is not accidental that most of the passages under consideration are intimately connected with Platonism and its traditions … The problems of the relationship between matter and spirit, appearance and reality, outward form and true meaning, tangibility and idea, constitute the basic problems of all Platonic thinkers, in metaphysical as well as in aesthetic considerations. It is in this contact that we will find the hieroglyphical thinkers.” Dieckmann, L., Hieroglyphics: The History of a Literary Symbol, (St Louis: Washington University Press, 1970), p. 2.<br />
[2] Wittkower, R., ‘Hieroglyphics in the Early Renaissance’, Allegory and the Migration of Symbols, (London: Thames and Hudson, 1977; repr. 1987), p 114. “In the course of time Rome had more than forty-two obelisks, twelve of which survive to this day… Nobody interfered with this obelisk standing next to the old basilica of St. Peter’s, the centre of Christianity.”<br />
[3] Taken from the site http://www.geocities.com/mp_pollett/roma-co2.htm, on Roman obelisks.<br />
[4] Dieckmann, p. 31<br />
[5] Wittkower, p. 114<br />
[6] Herodotus, The Histories (Harmondsworth: Penguin Classics, 1972), pp. 105 and113<br />
[7] Iversen, E., The Myth of Egypt and it Hieroglyphs in European Tradition (Copehagen: GEC GAD Publishers, 1961), p.59. According to Iversen, Horapollo’s Hieroglyphica had been coped down until the fourteenth century, but the ‘Egyptological material was never studied for its own sake, for the information it provided about Egypt and Egyptian culture, but exclusively for philological reasons’.<br />
[8] Wittkower, p. 116<br />
[9] Dieckmann, p. 31<br />
[10] Magee, G. A., Hegel and the Hermetic Tradition (New York: Cornell University Press, 2001), p. 28. “In 1460, fourteen out of the fifteen “philosophical” Hermetica were brought to Florence from Macedonia by a monk employed by Cosimo de'Medici to locate manuscripts for him. Remarkably, Cosimo ordered Marsilio Ficino (1433–99) to interrupt the translation he was preparing of Plato's dialogues to begin work immediately on a Latin translation of the Corpus Hermeticum. Ficino's translation, entitled Pimander (after the first of the treatises) and printed for the first time in 1471, had an incredibly wide circulation. It went through sixteen editions up until the end of the sixteenth century”.<br />
[11] Magee, p. 22: ‘from the end of the Roman world until the Renaissance, the Latin Asclepius was the only portion of the Corpus Hermeticum available in the West. During this period of nearly a thousand years, the primary transmission of Hermetic ideas to Europe was through alchemy. During the Middle Ages Hermes Trismegistus was given as the author of scores of occult works, and even medical texts. Prominent among this “pseudo-Hermetic” literature were the various Arabic texts attributed to Hermes. The most famous of these works was the Emerald Tablet. A very short work (about a page long) it was nevertheless extremely influential, particularly on alchemy. According to the text, Apollonius of Tyana discovered the tomb of Hermes Trismegistus and, inside, an engraved emerald tablet still clutched in his gnarled hands. The text of the tablet then follows. It consists of twelve propositions. The initial one is the most famous: “In truth certainly and without doubt, whatever is below is like that which is above, and whatever is above is like that which is below, to accomplish the miracles of one thing.”‘<br />
[12] Panofsky states: “For Ficino, Plato is both a ‘Moses talking Attic Greek’ and an heir to the wisdom of Orpheus, Hermes Trismegistus, Zoroaster, and the stages of ancient Egypt”. Panofsky, E., Renaissance and Renascences in Western Art (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1939, reprint), p. 183<br />
[13] Iversen, p.60.<br />
[14] Magee, p. 28. “In the preface to Pimander, Ficino presented his own genealogy of wisdom, which he culled from a variety of sources, including the church fathers Augustine, Lactantius, and Clement. It began with Hermes Trismegistus and Zoroaster, and traced a direct line to Plato.”<br />
[15] Iversen, p.60, Iversen points to Ficino’s De Christiana Religione and Theologica Platonica as linking these together. See also note above.<br />
[16] Wittkower, p. 115-116<br />
[17] Edgar Wind, however, would have this comment as an “incidental remark by Plotinus”, he goes on to state that “Plotinus has suggested that Egyptian ciphers are more suitable for sacred script than alphabetic writing because they represent the diverse parts of the discourse as implicit, and thus concealed in one single form. Since Pico ascribed the same virtue to the writing of the Hebrew without vowels, it is legitimate to suspect that the Renaissance speculations on ‘implicit signs’ were not concerned with a positive theory of optical intuition, but with that far less attractive subject called steganography, the cryptic recording of sacred knowledge”. Wind, E., Pagan Mysteries in the Renaissance (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1958, repr. 1980), p. 207. Here I’m unsure if Edgar Wind really means steganography in the literal sense of hidden text, as opposed to a coded message to be deciphered by the recipient.<br />
[18] Liselotte Dieckmann also feels that the Neo-Platonists were quick to utilise Plotinus for their own aims. She states that “Plato’s negative attitude toward the art of writing is carefully omitted later by those authors who considered hieroglyphs to contain supreme truth”. Dieckmann, p. 6. Later she states that “Plotinus mentions the Egyptian hieroglyphics as an example of his idea of ‘form’, thus furnishing the Renaissance authors with a strong philosophical argument”, p. 17.<br />
[19] The Letters of Marsilio Ficino, Volume 7, (London: Shepheard-Walwyn, 2003), p. 23, Letter 19 to John of Hungary. For a breakdown of the possibe intended recipients of this letter, see p. 200 of the same volume.<br />
[20] Barasch, M., ‘Renaissance Hieroglyphics’ in Hieroglyphen, Stationen einer anderen abendlandishchen Grammatologie, (Munich, Germany: Wilhem Fink Verlag), p. 170. Barasch goes on to say ‘The eye can be a way of the cognition of God because in itself it has some affinity with the divine, The way the eye acts in the processes of cognition is a reflection of divine thinking. Discursive cognition and recording is an analytical process… seeing, on the other hand, is a grasping in one, single instant, the whole configuration. It is therefore not surprising that it is precisely in a passage dealing with hieroglyphs where Ficino says that “God doubtless has a knowledge of things which is not complex discursive thought about its subject, but is, as it were, the simple and steadfast form of it”. Ficino’s words are a concise description of visual or intuitive thought, as the Renaissance understood it. It is also in this kind of thought that man can perceive, or visually experience, something of the divine’.<br />
[21] Dieckmann, p. 23<br />
[22] Dieckmann, p. 38-39. Dieckmann lists a “brief and incomplete enumeration of some aspects of the Cabala as it made itself felt in Renaissance hieroglyphical thinking: 1. God himself revealed to man the “names” of all things. When Adam, in Paradise, named the things, he was taught to do so by God. 2. Consequently the names of things are the right names, the only meaningful and necessary names of the things. 3. Hence, by pronouncing the name of a thing, the essence of the thing is evoked…”<br />
[23] Martin Elsky also points to this, he states that “Renaissance thinkers, influenced to various degrees by Humanism, Neoplatonism and Christian cabalism, attributed mystic powers and deep symbolic meaning to the Hebrew alphabet, thinking of its letters as secret hieroglyphs, a characteristic that was in some sense passed on to its descendents in the modern languages. For instance, in his De Verbo Mirifico (1494), Reuchin saw in Hebrew letters the same mystical hieroglyphic meaning as the renaissance attributed to Egyptian writing”, Elsky, M., ‘George Herbert’s Pattern Poems and the Materiality of Language: A New Approach to Renaissance Hieroglyphics’, English Literary History, Vol. 50, No. 2 (Summer, 1983), 245-260, pp. 248.<br />
[24] Wittkower, p. 120<br />
[25] Dannefeldt states that “Here was a new language for the humanist to master, and those who were inclined toward the occult and esoteric were especially intrigued, for here, they felt, was not only a key to ancient wisdom, but by clever arrangement of images and by the addition of a few signs of their own, whole sentences, mottoes and coats of arms could be formulated that would be known only to the initiate.”, Dannenfeldt, K., ‘The Renaissance and the Pre-Classical Civilisations’, Journal of the History of Ideas, Vol. 12, No. 4 (Oct., 1952), 435-449, pp. 449<br />
[26] Wittkower, p. 120<br />
[27] Lewis, D., in The Currency of Fame: Portrait Medals of the Renaissance, Ed. S Sher (London Thames and Hudson, 1994), p. 42 </images><br />
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[28] Lewis, p.43<br />
[29] Wittkower, p. 118 “To this misconception we must add the strange phenomenon that, although Egyptian hieroglyphs were the starting point of their search for the lost wisdom, they never regarded it as necessary to use symbols even vaguely reminiscent of true hieroglyphs. Their interest was focused on the method rather than on the original ideogram.”<br />
[30] Dieckmann, p. 44<br />
[31] Gorse, p.314<br />
[32] Gorse, p. 319<br />
[33] Gorse, p. 325<br />
[34] Dieckmann, p. 47<br />
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Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-85453343497292369372011-06-07T05:41:00.000-07:002011-06-07T06:05:29.037-07:00An Alchemical Reading List<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Recently I have been asked to devise a reading list on alchemy for a dear chum. As it's been some time since I read anything on alchemy (other ventures beckoned), I wasn't entirely sure where to begin. So, in my experience, you begin at the beginning.<br />
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During my BA I was exceptionally fortunate to have studied the relationships between alchemy and early modern culture at Birkbeck, under the tutelage of the renowned Dr Stephen Clucas (reader in Early Modern Intellectual History), and Dr Peter Forshaw (Honorary Research Fellow).<br />
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Frankly, what they don't know between them about early modern science, magic, alchemy, astrology, Ficino, Boyle, the early modern occult, and Cabala could probably be written on an A4 sheet! I'm constantly amazed, looking back at the reading list, that I got through it at all.<br />
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It was their sheer enthuisism, knowledge and dedication that in part convinced me to take the MA in Renaissance Studies. The Early Modern period is a fascinating period in the explosion of intellectual knowledge in mainland Europe, both through the study of newly translated classical texts, and contemporary research. </span> </span></span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></span></i></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The following reading list is the one devised by Dr Clucas for his </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Magic, Science and Religion</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> in the Renaissance</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> course, which can be taken at Birkbeck. Now. It's not going to be easy, but you don't have to reading them in the timescales in which we did during the course. I have deliberately left them in their unit order, as this structure offers the reader the most accessible order of knowledge, but naturally if specific areas are not of interest - leave them out. However, a true Renaissance student is interested in the broadest range of knowledge, and takes an inter-disciplinary approach to research.</span></span></span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Of course you would gain <i>much</i> more insight by taking the course for yourselves, and </span></span></span></i></b><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">details of the courses available and Stephen's pages, are available here:</span></span></span></i></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> <a href="http://www.bbk.ac.uk/english/our-staff/full-time-academic-staff/clucas"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Dr Stephen Clucas</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> </span><a href="http://www.bbk.ac.uk/english/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">English and Humanities at Birkbeck</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> </span></span></span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"></span></span></span></i></b><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.bbk.ac.uk/english/prospective-students"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Courses at E & H, Birkbeck</span></a></span></span></i></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
As for my dear chum, I hope you don't think I've copped out, but this is the perfect list if you really want to get a thorough background. x </span></span></span></i></b><br />
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Magic, Science and Religion in the Renaissance </span></span></i></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">This module investigates the relations between some of the major intellectual currents in Early Modern Europe, the complex interplay between its various kinds of magic, science and religion. The course calls into question conventional forms of historiography that contrast a benighted illicit magic to either a pious religiosity or enlightened science and helps the student develop a familiarity with the theories and practices of those engaged in what has been called ―the Other Side of the Scientific Revolution. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The course considers the boundaries of acceptable knowledge and the particular communicability of its forms in Renaissance and Reformation Europe. Discussing the works of significant early modern thinkers (including Agrippa, Bacon, Browne, Copernicus, Dee, Della Porta, Ficino, Pico della Mirandola, Paracelsus, and Reuchlin), it will look at the interaction between magical, religious, and humanist discourse, the relations between "occult" and "scientific" forms of knowledge and natural and supernatural forms of experience and agency. By the end of the course the student will have considered such "occult" subjects as astrology, alchemy, cabala, natural and ceremonial magic, as well as works traditionally associated with the Scientific Revolution (such as Copernicus‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De revolutionibus </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">and Kepler‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De Harmonia Mundi</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">) in the context of contemporary religious belief.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Historiographical Debates: The Occult and the Scientific</span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key Texts: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Frances Yates, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Giordano Bruno and the Hermetic Tradition, </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Renaissance Magic and Science‘, pp. 144–56 and extracts from Brian Vickers, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Occult and Scientific Mentalities </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 198, Introduction‘, pp. 1–54.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background Reading</span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">: Brian Copenhaver, Natural magic, Hermetism and Occultism in early modern science‘, in David C. Lindberg and Robert Westman (eds) </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Reappraisals of the Scientific revolution </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1990), pp. 261–30</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Magic and Religion I: Magic as Sacrament</span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key Texts: Agrippa, </span></span></b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Three Books of Occult Philosophy</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, Book 1, Chapter 2, pp.5-6; Book 3, Chapters 1-9; Pseudo-Pelagius‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De arte crucifixi</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, and Pseudo-Solomon, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Liber virtutis </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">and </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Ars Almadel Salomonis</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, Albertus Magnus, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Speculum Astronomiae</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, cap. XI (Zambelli ed., pp. 241–51.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">42</span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background Reading: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Frank Klaasen, ̳English Manuscripts of Magic, 1300–1500: A Preliminary Survey‘, in Claire Fanger (ed.) </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Conjuring Spirits: Texts and Traditions of mediaeval Ritual Magic </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Stroud: Sutton Publishing, 1998), pp. 3–31; Charles Burnett, ̳Talismans: Magic as Science? Necromancy among the Seven Liberal Arts‘, in </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Magic and Divination in the Middle Ages: Texts and techniques in the Islamic and Christan Worlds </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Aldershot: Ashgate-Variorum, 1996), item 1.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Magic and Religion II: Magic as Impiety </span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key Texts: </span></span></b><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Extracts from Johann Weyer‘s </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De praestigiis daemonum </span></span></i><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">and Martin del </span></span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Rio, </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Inquistiones magicae</span></span></i><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">.</span></span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background Reading: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">D. P. Walker, ̳Ficino‘s magic in the sixteenth century II: Condemnations‘, in </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Spiritual and Demonic Magic: from Ficino to Campanella </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(London: Warburg Institute, 1958, repr. Stroud: Sutton Publishing Ltd, 2000), pp. 145–85, Charles Zika, ̳Reuchlin‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De verbo mirifico </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">and the magic debate of the late fifteenth century‘, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, 39 (1976), 105– 138.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Learned Renaissance Magic I: Giovanni Pico della Mirandola</span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Extracts from Giovanni Pico della Mirandola‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">900 Theses</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, trans. Steven A. Farmer, </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Syncretism in the West: Pico’s 900 Theses (1486) </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Tempe, Arizona: MRTS, 1998) and </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De dignitate hominis </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(On the Dignity of Man).</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background Reading</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">: Steven A. Farmer, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Syncretism in the West: Pico’s 900 Theses (1486) </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Tempe, Arizona: MRTS, 1998), ̳Pico and the Syncretic Origins of Renaissance Magic: Further problems in the Yates Thesis‘, pp. 115-132; Brian Copenhaver, ̳Number, Shape and meaning in Pico‘s Christian Cabala‘ in Anthony Grafton and Nancy Sirasi (eds.), </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Natural particulars: nature and the disciplines in Renaissance Europe </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press, 1999), pp. 25–76; Frances Yates, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Giordano Bruno and the Hermetic Tradition</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, ̳Pico della Mirandola and Cabalist magic‘, pp. 84–116.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Learned Renaissance Magic II: Marsilio Ficino </span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key texts: </span></span></b><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Marsilio Ficino, </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De vita libris tres</span></span></i><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, Bk III: </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De vita coelitus comparanda</span></span></i><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">.</span></span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background Reading: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Introduction to Carol V. Kaske and John R. Clark, trans. </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Marsilio Ficino. Three books on life </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Tempe, Arizona: MRTS, 1998), pp. 45–70; D. P. Walker, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Spiritual and Demonic Magic</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, pp. 3–54; Frances Yates, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Giordano Bruno and the Hermetic Tradition</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, pp. 62–116.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Mediaeval „Magic‟ to Renaissance „Science‟: Radiation Theory</span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key Text</span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">: Translated extracts from Al-Kindi, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De radiis siue theorica magica </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">[handout]; Robert Grosseteste‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De lineis angulis et figures</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, trans. in Edward Grant, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">A Sourcebook in Mediaeval Science </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Cambridge Mass., 1974), pp. 385–88; John Dee, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Propaedeumata aphoristica </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(London, 1568).</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background reading: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Nicholas Clulee, </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">John Dee’s Natural Philosophy: Between Science and Religion </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">,(London: Routledge, 1988), pp. 39–73; Stephen Clucas, ̳Corpuscular Matter Theory in the Northumberland Circle‘, in Christoph Lüthy, John E. Murdoch and William R. Newman (eds.), Late Mediaeval and Early Modern Corpuscular Matter Theories (Leiden: Brill, 2001), 181–207.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Science and Humanism I: the Copernican “Revolution” </span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key Text: </span></span></b><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Nicolaus Copernicus, </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De revolutionibus</span></span></i><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, Preface and Book I.</span></span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background Reading: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Robert S. Westman, ̳Proof, poetics and patronage: Copernicus‘s preface to </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De revolutionibus</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">‘ in Westman and Lindberg, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Reappraisals</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, pp. 167–205; Hans Blumenberg, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The genesis of the Copernican world</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, chapters 4–6, pp. 200–255.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Science and Humanism II: Renaissance Natural History</span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key texts: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Extracts from Albertus Magnus‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Liber secretorum</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, Giovanni Battista della Porta‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Magiae Naturalis</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, Conrad Gesner, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Historia Animalium </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(1580), Sir Thomas Browne, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Pseudodoxia epidemica </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(1646) and </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The Garden of Cyrus</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background reading</span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">: William B. Ashworth, ̳Natural History and the Emblematic Worldview‘ in Lindberg and Westman, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Reappraisals, </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">pp. 303–332, Barbara Shapiro, ̳History and natural history in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century England: an essay on the relationship between humanism and science‘, in </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">English Scientific Virtuosi in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Papers read at a Clark Library Seminar, 5 February 1977 by Barbara Shapiro and Robert G. Frank, Jr. </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Los Angeles: William Andrews Clark Memorial Library, University of California, 1979), pp. 1–55.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Experiment in the Renaissance I: Experiment and Experience</span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key Texts: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Extracts from Francis Bacon, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Sylva sylvarum</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, William Gilbert, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De magnete</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, Giovanni-Battista della Porta, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Magiae Naturalis, sive de miraculis rerum naturalium libri IIII </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(1558), trans. </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Natural Magick ... in twenty bookes </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(London, 1658), and experimental MSS by Thomas Harriot and Walter Warner.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background Reading</span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">: Nicholas Clulee, </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">John Dee’s Natural Philosophy</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, pp. 171–4; Peter Dear, ̳Narratives, Anecdotes and Experiments, in Peter Dear (ed.) </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The Literary Structure of Scientific Argument </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1991), pp. 135–63, and idem, ̳Jesuit Mathematical Science and the Reconstitution of Experience in the early seventeenth century‘, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Studies in the History and Philosophy of Science</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, 2 (1987), pp. 133–75</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span> </span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Experiment in the Renaissance II: Alchemy – Symbolic Discourse and Laboratory Practice</span></span></b></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Key Texts: </span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Eirenaeus Philalethes, </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">An Exposition upon sir George Ripley’s Vision</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">; Extracts from Lambsprinck, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">De Lapide Philosophico</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, George Ripley‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Compound of Alchemy</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, and Elias Ashmole‘s </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Theatrum Chemicum Britannicum</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Background reading</span></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">: Lawrence Principe and William R. Newman, ̳Some problems with the Historiography of Alchemy‘, in William R. Newman and Anthony Grafton (eds.) </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Secrets of nature: Astrology and Alchemy in Early Modern Europe </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Cambridge, Mass., MIT Press, 2001), 385–431, and ̳Alchemy vs Chemistry: The Etymological Origins of a Historiographic Mistake‘, </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Early Science and Medicine</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">, 3 (1998), 32–65. Stephen Clucas, ̳Thomas Harriot and the field of knowledge in the English Renaissance‘, in Robert Fox (ed.) </span></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Thomas Harriot: An Elizabethan Man of Science </span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">(Aldershot: Ashgate, 2000), pp. 93–126 (120–26).</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px 'Times New Roman'; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
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</div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-8469221650327847992010-08-07T16:00:00.000-07:002011-05-27T10:28:32.273-07:00Sumptuary Legislation in Early Modern London Theatre, between 1590 and 1615<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 24px;"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><i>"The way by which our laws attempt to regulate idle and vain expenses in meat and clothes, seems to be quite contrary to the end designed. The true way would be to beget in men a contempt of silks and gold, as vain, frivolous, and useless; whereas we augment to them the honours, and enhance the value of such things, which, sure, is a very improper way to create a disgust. For to enact that none but princes shall eat turbot, shall wear velvet or gold lace, and interdict these things to the people, what is it but to bring them into a greater esteem, and to set every one more agog to eat and wear them’. </i></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><i>Montaigne, Vol VII, XLIII</i></span></div></i><br />
Although a large quantity of work has been carried out on sumptuary legislation, particularly within the Acts of Apparel, it is only in the last twenty years or so that recently that analysis has begun of resulting representations of clothing in the theatre, and much of this particularly within the area of gender issues. I’m interested in early modern City Comedies, or Citizen’s Comedies, as they offer the most scope in terms of satirisation of the subject.<br />
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Originally in one piece, I have now divided this article into several sections. Hopefully this will make it more readable, although for the sake of continuity it is probably best still to read all the sections (but I would say that...)<br />
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<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><div id="edn" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="Endnote"><span id="goog_1254481544"></span></div></div></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-71091858717246931462010-08-07T15:00:00.000-07:002010-08-16T10:05:05.736-07:00- Part 1: A History of the Legislation<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">A History of Sumptuary Legislation in England</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[i]</span></a></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="Section1"><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Sumptuary legislation has existed for centuries - one of the earliest examples one is found in Greek law which ‘ordained that no woman should wear gold or embroidered material unless she were a prostitute.’</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[ii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> In the early modern period the sumptuary laws in England forbid prostitutes to wear anything as elaborate or excessive, but this serves to illustrate that different time periods have different ideas of what is fitting for each social class to wear.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Using N. B. Harte’s ‘</span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Social Control of Dress and Social Change</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">’, A. Hunt’s ‘</span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Governance of Consuming Passions</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">’, and F. Baldwin’s ‘</span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Sumptuary Legislation’</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, we can fast-track through the legislation relating to apparel, and covering the period 1337 to 1604 in England.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Sumptuary legislation was introduced into England relatively late compared to the rest of Europe, with the first Act of Apparel being established in 1337, forbidding all but the royal family to wear cloth manufactured outside England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales. This legislation was obviously introduced for economic reasons, and intended to promote internal production.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">In 1363 however, another act was introduced which dealt with the specifics of who could wear what in much greater detail – not just in terms of the status of the wearer – but also in terms of the actual cost of the garment.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[iii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> However, in 1364 the Act was repealed completely.</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Between 1388 and 1604, when the Acts were repealed again entirely, the legislation was continuously updated and shored up by nineteen royal proclamations.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[iv]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> The 1463 Act divided society into seven social groups, which were intended to make the act more enforceable and to aid distinction between the groups</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[v]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Act of 1510, allowed King Henry VIII to ‘grant licences of exception’ and ‘excluded all women without distinction’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[vi]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Henry did grant licences, and two are on record from 1517, allowing commoners to wear prohibited garments. In 1537 a licence grants members of the Artillery Company of Finsbury to wear silks, velvet and furs.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[vii]</span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Act of 1533 was based much more around the ownership of wealth, rather than social status, and many more distinctions were made on annual incomes, dictating the level to which one could dress.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[viii]</span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Although rarely mention in studies on sumptuary law, Edward VI did prepare a bill for ‘the restraining and directing of apparel’, but although it was passed, it didn’t become law</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[ix]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The 1533 Act, states that the laws were for:</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">‘The necessary repressing, avoiding and expelling of the inordinate excess daily more and more used in the sumptuous and costly array and apparel customarily worn in this realm, whereof hath ensued and daily do chance such sundry high and notable inconveniences as to be to the great, manifest and notorious detriment of the common weal, the subversion of good and politic order in knowledge and distinction of people according to their estates, pre-eminences, dignities and degrees, and to the utter impoverishment and undoing of main inexpert and light persons inclined to pride, mother of all vices…’</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[x]</span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">As Harte points out, ‘It was taken for granted that a person’s dress should reflect his station in life.’</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xi]</span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Two things are reflected in the changes to the legislation - the changes in social mobility and class structure, and the creation of fashion. Enforcement of the Act came in a variety of manners, and altered over time: one might have the offending item confiscated (the person accusing you might keep the items confiscated); one could face a fine (half of which might be paid to the informer); and in the 1554 Act if your servant wore silk outlawed garments, you could be fined £10 per day, and the servant would go to prison for three months.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">However in order to fine you, you had to be caught ‘in the act’ as it were.</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">One of the few early examples of enforcement during the reign of Henry VIII relates to ‘a gentleman named Symon fyzEichard’ who had taken from him ‘an olde Jacket of Crymosyn velvet & diverse brooches’ by Cardinal Wolsey. This apparently caused Wolsey ‘to be hated, & by his exsample many cruell officers for malice evell intreated diverse of kinges subiectes’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xiii]</span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Elizabeth I seems to have been resolute in her intention to enforce the Acts, and she declared that officers arrest those inappropriately dressed at court, and that ‘in the City of London, four ‘substantial and well-meaning men’ were to be appointed in every ward to bring offenders before the court of aldermen; in all other places, the relevant mayors, bailiffs or JP’s were to establish a similar system’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xiv]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Any offences had to be reported back to the Lord Chancellor every six weeks for the next year.</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Within a year of reaching the throne Elizabeth: </span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">‘gave notice of her determination to have the acts of apparel obeyed. In a proclamation dated 21 October 1559 magistrates and men in authority were charged to see that the law is observed … Early in the following month a letter was sent by the privy council to the city corporation, which shows that the proclamation was not to be allowed to pass unheeded. It contained the novel suggestion that two watchers should be appointed for every parish, armed with a schedule of all persons assess to the late subsidy at £20 per annum, or £200 in goods and upwards, in order to see that the prohibition against silk trimmings was being obeyed.’</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xv]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Lisa Jardine points out that it was those peers who had been newly created by Elizabeth’s father who were tasked with administering the code, but that ‘as often happens, it was these new peers who set their faces most firmly against any further social mobility’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xvi]</span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">In this proclamation Elizabeth also dealt with ‘a new abuse not mentioned in the statutes which seems, had recently grown to serious proportions. This was ‘the use of the monstrous and outrageous greatness of hosen, which, it is asserted, have crept a late into the Realme’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xvii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Tailors were specifically restricted as to how much material they could put into ‘hosen’, and more incredibly ‘as a further precaution, search was to be made, once in every eight days, in the house of every hosier’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xviii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">According to Harte, in 1574 ‘there was an appeal for people to reform themselves, and for an example to be set by noblemen, privy councillors, mayors and ‘generally to all that hath any superiority or government over and upon any multitude’, as well as by ‘each man in his own household for their children and servants’’</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xix]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">By 1597 however, the proclamation for that year declared that ‘no reformation at all hath followed’. Elizabeth enjoined JP’s to enforce the acts which represented a’ ‘pestilent canker in a commonwealth, the confusion of all degrees’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xx]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Here again the thing which causes the problem is the lack of distinction between the classes.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">We can only assume from the above, and from the scant examples of people actually being punished (or more accurately of extant records detailing their punishment), that the Acts were really very difficult to enforce to any satisfaction.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">With the passing of Elizabeth I and the ascension of James I, we come full circle in our examination of the legislation – for in Scotland ‘it be lauchfull to na wemen to weir abone their estait expect howris’, that is, it is unlawful for anyone but whores to dress above their station.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxi]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> One of the only Scottish examples restricting dress mirrors that of the earliest examples known to us, the restrictions on all but prostitutes in Greece.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Although the sumptuary laws were repealed in 1604, this cannot be viewed as a relaxation in views on social class with the ascension of James. James had in fact attempted to introduce new legislation which would have allowed him the direct right to dictate legislation through Royal Proclamation, and it was for this reason that the bill was not passed. As a result the Act was repealed before any new legislation could be agreed. Indeed, further bills were presented in 1610, 1614, 1621, 1626 and 1628, though some were raised by merchants interested in protectionism rather than maintaining distinctions between social classes.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">James did issue Royal Proclamations relating to the wearing of bands dyed with yellow starch</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxiii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, although this caused a sensation by being associated with the Overbury affair, which I will not attempt to detail here. Put simply and within the context of this discussion, James banned the used of starch for bands because it was deemed wasteful to utilise a foodstuff for fashion.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxiv]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Scholars agree that the earliest Acts were concerned with the importation of cloth from overseas, and with ‘inordinate and excessive apparel’ leading to the ‘impoverishing of this realm of England and to the enriching of other strange realms and countries’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxv]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> This level of protectionism was matched by legislation from Elizabeth I between 1571 and 1597 making it ‘obligatory for the non-gentry to wear an English-made cap of knitted wool on Sundays and holy days’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxvi]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Harte states that ‘This was specifically intended to benefit the trade, claimed to employ eight thousand in London alone’</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxvii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, although one might conclude that this would probably ensure that your woollen cap became the thing you resented wearing most, becoming a form of livery not sought.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">However later legislation is increasingly concerned with maintaining the social classes, and ensuring that everyone understands their place within that structure. People other than the Court are interested in enforcing these codes, and consideration must be given to the impact of the Reformation. The Church had undergone a massive change in the way it presented itself, and shows of flashy clothing became associated with either excessive pride, or worse still, with foreigners and Catholics.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxviii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> In a society which removed all obvious displays of ostentation from the churches, an impact must have been felt in clothing too, as can be evidenced in Philip Stubbs, </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Anatomie of Abuses</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxix]</span></a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">With the Reformation we also see the rise of the increasingly militant Puritanical movement, which believed in plain and simple attire, viewing obvious displays of wealth as a lack of piety and a demonstration of the aforementioned excessive pride.</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">One can see, therefore, that an incredibly simple way of reinforcing a stereotype within a play is to produce a character with yellow bands, or with enormous hose, padded throughout. Such types would be immediately recognizable, and one has only to reflect the specifics of the latest legislation within the outfit of the character to achieve such recognition.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">There is also the very real impact of the theatre being both a reflection of fashion, and a creator of / showcase for the latest fashions too. One can see the way in which the legislation increasingly created and (literally) fashioned the importance of clothing both within society, and within the theatre.</span></a></span></span></div></div></div><div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"></div></div></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-7611360815667116262010-08-07T14:00:00.000-07:002010-08-16T10:04:29.643-07:00- Part 2: The Impact of Increased Mobility and Wealth<div class="Section1"><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleChapterSubtitleJustified"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">A Brief Review of the Social Impact of Improved Mobility and Wealth</span></a></span></span></i></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">There are several outstanding works in this field, including those of Lawrence Stone, Andrew Gurr, Keith Wrightson and Lawrence Manley.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxx]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">To summarise their findings: Land ownership truly opens up during the early modern period, and greater numbers of ‘commoners’ achieve high status at Court, at Parliament, and within the arts (the oft cited Wolsey the butchers son being but one example). With landowners increasingly obliged to sell their land to raise capital, a new generation of wealthy but landless individuals found themselves in a position to realise their ambitions, and this is reflected in the sumptuary legislation moving from a strictly titled, landowning or class based system to reflect an increasingly mercantile element. </span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">This newly realised wealth enabled all manner of people to travel to the capital, and to support their lifestyles there, leading to a dramatic increase in attendance levels within the theatre. It also led to a significant increase in the number of merchants providing goods, which in turn led to a significant increase in the wealth of those merchants. </span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">However it is wrong to suggest that all this automatically leads to a blurring of class distinctions, I mean it to demonstrate that in certain areas, namely that of clothing and wealth, distinctions become less pronounced and opportunities for displaying your newly acquired wealth, say within the theatre, become more pronounced. Gurr says</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">‘The newly rich and the big spenders alike used playhouses to advertise their status, whether their social mobility was upward as a prosperous citizen, or downward as young and extravagant gallant. That consideration – the distorting effect of London’s magnetism on the wealthy – should be born in mind when look at Harrison’s or Wilson’s categories. London’s population doubled from 100,000 to 200,000 between 1580 and 1600, and doubled again by 1650 to 4000, at a time when the total population of England grew only about 20%, from little over four million in 1600. London’s dynamism attracted the wealthy and the unemployed alike.’</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">In terms of clothing, the rise in available cash went quickly into conspicuous displays of consumption, such as fashionable hoods; silk braid and tassels; jewels and feathers; and increasing numbers of foreign artisans arrived into London to accommodate the new market. All this only served to increase the importance of clothing within the period.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleChapterSubtitleJustified"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i><br />
</i></span></div></div></div><div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"></div></div></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-88630117999203151602010-08-07T13:00:00.000-07:002010-08-16T10:03:23.280-07:00- Part 3: Garments Are Valuable Objects<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Garments as Valuable Objects and their Representation in Art</span></a></span></span></i><br />
<br />
<div class="Section1"><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Extensive work on the subject of clothing as a valuable item has been carried by Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass in their book </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory </span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(hereafter referred to as </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Renaissance Clothing</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">). In it they describe how items of clothing came to make part of the annual wages of an employee, who must be kept, clothed and fed by his master. The payment for clothing often represented several times the actual sum paid to the employee.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxi]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">It also describes how articles of clothing might be given to retainers as gifts, particularly at Court where Elizabeth gave her own gowns to her ladies in waiting, or had gowns made for them. This of course leads to the issue of whether clothing as a form of livery is effectively enslavement.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Renaissance Clothing</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> turns then to examine the inherent value of clothing, and the manner in which a garment can be taken down into its constituent and equally valuable individual parts – either for reassembling into another garment, or in the example of gold and silver thread, can be melted down and the metal recovered once the garment is no longer fit to be worn. ‘The value of clothes was thus directly connected to the expense of the materials from which they were made. Because of their value, the materials often had long and complex afterlives’.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxiii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Additionally, Janet Arnold has carried out extensive work on the wardrobe of Queen Elizabeth, and in her work </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxiv]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> many illustrations and itemised lists show the incredible level of detail and work which went into a gown or garment of the period. Items are scattered with gold embroidery, with jewels and pearls, and incredibly costly materials are used both as outer and inner garments. Indeed, the black tips normally associated with the monarch’s ermine, are in fact the tip of the tail cut into the normally white ermine’s coat. Thus in depictions of Elizabeth wearing spotted ermine, we can appreciate the incredible level of work which went into it.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">In </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Renaissance Clothing</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> there is a further examination of the cost of items of clothing contrasted against the costs of portraiture. Stallybrass and Jones draw our attention to the fact that the commissioning of a portrait was often significantly cheaper than the actual commissioning of the garment itself</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxv]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">. They also discuss the manner in which a garment or article of clothing is often represented in incredible detail – but the actual portrait of the sitter is not. They conclude that such expensive items should be shown to their full impact, and therefore would be sent ahead to the artist to paint in some detail, whilst the sitter themselves would only appear for a short time. One interesting observation is that paintings were often named for the outfit of the sitter, not for the sitter themselves, and that subjects might hire outfits for a sitting rather than wear their own clothes.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxvi]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">We can draw parallels in Lisa Jardine’s book, </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Worldly Goods</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, where Jardine cites the now famous van Eyck painting, the Arnolfini Marriage as an example of ‘a celebration of ownership – of pride in possessions”.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxvii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> The details of the painting are a renaissance inventory of their wealth, a display of their status and importance.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">These facts in themselves may seem to have nothing to do with the theatre, but there are several knock-on effects. For example, if clothing is so costly, what do you do with it once it has served its purpose? If you’re given an outfit as a servant on the death of your master or mistress, which you might be forbidden from wearing due to the sumptuary laws, but which represents a significant financial investment, what do you do with it? The answer lies within the theatre and with the clothes dealers. In some cases an individual represents both.</span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">As stated, one obvious outlet for second hand clothing was the theatre. Plays contained a variety of characters, often depicting several different social classes, and costumes which accurately represented their status were used. There is evidence that far from just putting on a crown and becoming King, the playing companies spent increasing amounts of money on lavish and elaborate costumes. </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Renaissance Clothing</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> examines the entries in Henslowe’s ‘Diary’, and draws our attention to the rich and costly apparel stored both as items for sale, and as items purchased specifically for the players.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxviii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Jones & Stallybrass state that a play usually cost about £6, but the costumes relating to it might cost of £20, perhaps outstripping the cost of the playhouse itself.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xxxix]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> They also calculate that ‘from the full inventory of Vermeer’s parents, we can draw the following, to us, surprising scale of value: 19 paintings were worth less than 8 pairs of sheets and 2 green curtains; the 8 sheets and 2 curtains were worth less than a silk apron, and a satin bodice; and the apron and bodice were worth more than a workman’s wages for 56 days.’</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xl]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Clothing was inordinately expensive and in A Gurr’s </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Shakespearean Stage</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> he states that ‘The price of manufactured articles, as always in a predominantly subsistence economy was markedly higher than the cost of food. … The Earl of Leicester paid £543 for seven doublets and two cloaks, at an average cost for each item rather higher than the price Shakespeare paid for a house in Stratford.’</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xli]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Therefore a great deal of a company’s wealth might be tied up in the costumes it owned, not simply the building or takings. When a company disbanded, the costumes would be divided equally amongst them, or would be disputed over hotly.</span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xlii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleChapterSubtitleJustified"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i><br />
</i></span></div></div></div><div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"></div></div></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-59953764117281305402010-08-07T12:00:00.000-07:002010-08-16T10:02:50.641-07:00- Part 4: The Impact of Fashion on the Law<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Impact of Fashion on the Acts of Apparel, and Vice Versa</span></span></span></i><br />
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<div class="Section1"><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">With such importance being placed on the clothes you owned, were entitled to wear, and might wish to wear, one can understand only too readily that there might always be a race to stay ahead of legislation. The minute something became forbidden it would have a two-fold effect – for those with plenty of disposable income and the inclination to do so, one could create a new fashion which would subvert the legislation. For those that simply aspired to such items, publication in a proclamation might make them all that more desirable.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">If you attended the theatre regularly, you would be able to see the latest fashions, and this could lead to greater impetuous in trying to out-do your neighbour, </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">if</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> you had the money to compete. On another level, it would simply add to the level of spectacle and excitement of attending the theatre. The Citizens Wife in Beaumont’s </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Knight of the Burning Pestle</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> claims that she has been waiting some twelve months for her husband to take her there, clearly for some this represents an important social outing.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Looking at the earlier example of the woollen cap, one might see additionally that some items would become unfashionable very quickly. If one wanted to keep up with society, one merely had to choose the appropriate playhouse for your means, and step into the arena.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">It's in this way that clothing references within the plays become most pertinent – they reflect the changing state of fashion, they satirise those who would appear fashionable, and simultaneously introduce new fashions. In the constant recycling of clothing something handed down from Court to a theatre might find its way into street fashion very quickly. It also gives the playwrights an unparalleled opportunity to mock the audience, and the social types within London, in plays such as the City or Citizen’s Comedy genre.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="ChapterLabel"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i><br />
</i></span></div></div></div><div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></div></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-40988794201312648852010-08-07T11:45:00.000-07:002010-08-16T10:02:13.196-07:00- Part 5: Representations in Citizens Comedies<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">R</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">epresentations in theatre: the rise of the citizens comedy</span></span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xliii]</span></span></span></i></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="Section1"><div class="ChapterSubtitle"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="ChapterSubtitle"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="BodyTextChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The genre of city or citizen’s comedy might accurately be described as a satirical genre of social types. Within the work particularly of Jonson, Middleton, and Dekker, several social types emerge: the most common one’s being the Citizen or Freeman; the Merchant; the Gentleman or Gallant; and the seemingly endless division of women into wives, virgins, whores or lusty widows - although it has to be said this classification had of women had existed for centuries</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">What became apparent in the newly created genre was the impact of money on the type’s ability to present themself. The once quite puritanical merchant class in the City of London found they had access to a source of income hitherto untapped they found ways of increasing displays of wealth in the form of clothing.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">That city comedies should prove so popular should not be a surprise either. With the increase in wealth came the increase in theatre attendance for the masses, and previously clever, political and satirical plays gave way to a more gentle but sardonic form of satire. The Histories were still played, but theatre as a form of entertainment led to a change in the appetites of the audience. The gallants and wealthy merchant classes were easy targets for the criminal element of London too, and with the theatres being situation in the middle of the poorer districts, it is inevitable that much of the material relating to city comedies include the themes of fraud, deception, thieves and prostitution – it was simply part of the make up of London during this period. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Increasingly therefore the types are presented as the subjects of deceitful behaviour, and this is played to increasing comical effect. The rise of the satirical pamphlet alongside the city comedy reinforced these stereotypes, and increased the vocabulary of names and distinctive characteristics of each type. Clothing formed an essential element of this stereotyping, as can be seen in the following examples.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="ChapterSubtitle"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleChapterSubtitleJustified"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Representations of Citizens and Merchants</span></span></span></i></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></i></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">In the </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Shoemaker’s Holiday</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, Simon Eyre, the principal character begins the play as a shoemaker and ends up, through a series of events as Lord Mayor of London. Eyre is only able to do so because Lacey, a disguised gallant, presents him with the opportunity to make a significant some of money, by introducing him to the relevant contact, and by ensuring that Eyre has the twenty portugues required to carry out the transaction.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The major benefit for Eyre in being made into Lord Mayor is his ability to dress accordingly or more pertinently for his wife to dress accordingly. Eyre says that ‘I shall make thee a lady; here’s a French hood for thee. On with it, on with it, dress thy brows with this flap of a shoulder of mutton, to make thee look lovely.’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(X.140-143) </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Shoemaker’s Holiday</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> contains many clothing references from Lacey’s feathers and jewels; Sybil’s direct reference to the sumptuary laws with ‘I’ll sweat in purple, mistress, for you’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(II.ii.60); </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">to the inclusion of Jane’s shoes as a major motif within the plot. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">In </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Knight of the Burning Pestle</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, the Citizen wishes to direct the action from the start. He demands that a more suitable play be staged, and climbs onto the stage with the gallants in order to assert his authority. Here he is asked by the Prologue ‘Are you a member of the noble city?’, which one can only take to mean that he is attired as a Citizen. The Prologue clarifies ‘And a freeman’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(Induction, l10)</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, again implying that the clothing he wears must have represented him as such. His complaint is that ‘This seven years there hath been plays at this house, I have observed it, you have still girds at citizen’s; and now you call your play, The London Merchant. Down with your title, boy, down with your title!’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(Induction l6-9)</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The character of Yellowhammer in </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">A Chaste Maid in Cheapside</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> works on several levels. Yellowhammer is a goldsmith and a citizen, a type in his own right and often satirised as such, but he is also indicative of the citizen who has wealth and now wishes to achieve social status through the marriage of his children. As a result, he and his wife are far more concerned with the legitimacy and status of their grandchildren, than with the actual happiness of their own children. Needless to say his plans are completely thwarted, and his son marries a bawd, his daughter the man he despises.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleChapterSubtitleJustified"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><br />
</span></span></i></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Gallants</span></span></span></i></div></div><div class="StyleChapterSubtitleJustified"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The depiction of Gallants in city comedies is particularly interesting; their entire persona is entwined with their visual representation. Their clothing, the pipe smoking, the love of feathers and jewels, being seen in all the right places, all serve to offer us a quite vivid impression of the ‘type’ of Gallant. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The playwrights seem to love satirising Gallants, which creates a kind of perverse irony – the playwright sends him up for wishing to parade around town in his finery, and for his desire to sit right up upon the stage so that he might be seen</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xliv]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">. And yet these are the very people who make the theatre interesting, who form an important part of the audience and certainly who pay the most to see the performance. In turn, one can only assume the Gallant enjoyed this form of notoriety, and enjoyed the notion of sitting on the stage, representing a Gallant, and again of course being seen by everyone. The ‘type’ of Gallant becomes a self-serving mechanism.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Certainly in the </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Guls Horn-book</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xlv]</span></a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, Dekker dedicates a chapter on ‘How a Gallant should behave himself in a Play-house’. Dekker says </span></span></span><span class="BlockQuotationChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">‘let our Gallant (having paid it) presently advance himselfe up to the Throne of the Stage. I mean not into the Lords roome (which is now but the Stages Suburbs)… But on the very Rushes where the Comedy is to daunce, yea, and under the stage of Cambises himself must our fethered Estridge, like a piece of Ordnance, be planted valiantly (because impudently) beating down the mewes and hisses of the opposed rascality. For do but cast up a reckoning, what large cummings-in are pursd up by sitting on the Stage. First a conspicuous Eminence is gotten; by which meanes, the best and most essenciall parts of a Gallant (good cloathes, a proportionable legge, white hand, the Persian lock, and a tolerable beard) are perfectly revealed.</span></span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xlvi]</span></span></span></i></span><span class="BlockQuotationChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">’.</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="BlockQuotationChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">This marvellous sending up of the Gallant encapsulates what it is to be a Gallant, and simultaneously creates the perfect role model. Indeed Dekker enjoins the Gallant not to get onto the stage until the last minute, ‘for it you should bestow your person upon the vulgar, when the belly of the house is but halfe full, your apparel is quite eaten up, the fashion lost’</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xlvii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Even more amusing is the irony of Dekker advising the Gallant on how to be ‘revenged on the playwright’. Should the playwright satirise his ‘feather’ or his ‘little legs’, Dekker recommends the he merely leave the stage in the middle of the play. He also instructs him not to leave quietly, but to ‘salute all your gentle acquaintance, that are spred either on the rushes or on stooles about you’.</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xlviii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The irony of Dekker satirising </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">whilst</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> creating the Gallant, typifies the genre of City Comedy. Clearly here it is essential that you be recognised as one in order to fit the role, and many of the satirical representations of gallants in the plays were based specifically on their choices of clothing.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">In </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Roaring Girl</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, Dekker and Middleton set a good deal of the gallants’ action around three shops: the apothecary (selling tobacco, that essential accessory of the ‘man about town’); a feather shop; and a ‘sempster’s’ or seamstresses shop, selling accessories, bands etc. Laxton, Greenwit and Goshawk spend some time engaging in the typical pursuits of their type – smoking, and choosing a ‘spangled feather’. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">However, Laxton must also cozen his way into some money in order to maintain his lifestyle – his target is the female owner of the apothecary, whom he seduces without actually engaging in any physical contact. Laxton tells us that ‘I hate her, but for the means to keep me in fashion with gallants: for what I take from her I spend on other wenches, bear her in hand still; she has enough wit to rob her husband, and I enough ways to consume the money’</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[xlix]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">. </span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Its obvious that gallants often raised money to support their lifestyle; perhaps the land had already been sold in order to get them to London and the ‘scene’ in the first place; clothing was a crucial way of demonstrating one’s status; and gallants were not above looking to the citizen’s class they apparently despised in order to obtain this money.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">A further depiction in the play includes Moll’s statement that ‘he [Jack Dapper] looks for all the world with those spangled feathers like a nobleman’s bedpost … oh, the gallants of these times are shallow lechers’</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[l]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">. </span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Also, Laxton, in hiring his coach to meet Moll asks ‘may we safely take the upper hand on any coached velvet cap or tufftaffety jacket? For they keep a vild swaggering in coaches nowadays, the highways are stopped with them’</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[li]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">. His concern here is that the performance of the coach be adequate to best those other gallants and citizen’s out parading their finery. Here a type categorises another type (in her note on the text, Elizabeth Cooks points out that since the cessation of the sumptuary laws, the highways had been crowded with coaches carrying those now able to show off their new acquired finery). This example also illustrates the point of what is fashionable, this was either </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">the</span></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> item to be seen in, or by contrast has become so commonplace as to be available to anyone on the highway.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Of further interest is Middleton’s introduction to the printed version of the play itself:</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">'The fashion of play-making I can properly compare to nothing so naturally as the alteration in apparel: for in the time of the great crop-doublet, your huge bombaseted plays, quilted with might words to lean purpose, was only then in fashion. And as the doublet fell, neater inventions began to be set up. Now in the time of spruceness, our plays follow the niceness of our garments, single plots, quaint conceits, lecherous jests, dressed up in hanging sleeves, and those are fit for the times and the termers: such a kind of light-colour summer stuff, mingled with diverse colours, you shall find in this published comedy, good to keep you in an afternoon from dice, at home in your chambers’.</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[lii]</span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">That Middleton himself should see the structure of the play in such terms reinforces the importance of fashion and of clothing as a representation of class, wealth and status; those not necessarily being the same thing in this period, in that one might be an impoverished landowner with the supposed ‘wealth’ to demonstrate your class, but without the actual means to purchase it. Furthermore, one might be newly wealthy through the sale of land, or through trade, but certainly lack the class or status to be viewed much beyond a foolish gallant or greedy merchant.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><br />
</a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
</span></div></div></div><div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"></div></div></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-90886717101101117292010-08-07T11:00:00.000-07:002010-08-16T10:01:27.989-07:00- Part 6: Clothing for Fraud and Deception<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">C</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">lothing as a vehicle for fraud and deception</span></span></span></i></span><br />
<br />
<div class="Section1"><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Clothing was also an important mechanism for acquiring credit within the early modern period. A gentleman arriving in London during the period of supposed sumptuary law enforcement might be distinguished by his clothing. Shopkeepers might take clothing at face value, and assume that the wearer was ‘good’ for their purchases within the shop. It would take little more than a trickster to hire an appropriate costume, to present himself as a gentleman, and to be treated accordingly. In fact there are examples of people arriving from abroad in expensive attire being lavished with entertainment and hospitality.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Within the theatre in general, many plays base the theme of disguise at the centre of their plot. One has only to look at some of the most popular Shakespearean plays which pivot on disguise or mistaken identity - <i>T</i></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">welfth Night</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, </span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">A Winter’s Tale</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">,</span></a></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> A Midsummer Nights Dream</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> and </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Merchant of Venice - </span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">to recognise this common mechanism for deception or confusion. However with the advent of the City Comedy, a different type of deception becomes satirised.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">One of the most rewarding examples is that of </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Alchemist</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">. Here Jonson uses the costume of the actors to dupe innocents out of their cash, clothing, jewellery, cloth, undergarments, damask, and other possessions</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[liii]</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">. When the actors dress as a doctor (or alchemist), they become one; Doll dressed as a lady instead of a bawd, becomes one; and when Faces wishes to reassume the role of Jeremy, his master’s housekeeper, he simply has to shave his beard and return to his regular clothes. His neighbours do not then recognise him as having been involved in the deception at the house, and he almost escapes without punishment.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Indeed </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Alchemist</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> makes a point of using clothing to dupe and subsequently satirise many of the very types we have discussed earlier: the citizen or his wife; the Puritan; the gallant; the bawd and the impoverished Knight.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Right at the beginning of the play, in a rant between Face and Subtle, we learn that they came across each other one in the ‘honest, plain livery-three-pund-thrum’ (I.i.16), the other</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">‘…pinned up in the several rags</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">You’d rak’d and picked from dunghills before day,</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Your feet in mouldy slippers for your kinbes,</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">A felt of rug, and a thin threaden cloak</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">That scarce would cover your no-buttocks’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(I.i.33-37)</span></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="line-height: normal;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Their very lack of clothing, or ownership of personal clothing sets up the play, they have nothing to lose with Face’s master away, and everything to gain. As I have said, the principal characters whom they dupe are all types, the puritan, the knight, the gallant, the citizen, but all have one thing in common – their greed. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">When Mammon (in itself a play on greed) fantasises about what he will do with his newly created gold, a large section of his speech is devoted to clothing:</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">‘My shirts,</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">I’ll have of taffeta-sarsnet, soft and light</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">As cobwebs; and for all my other raiment</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">It shall be such as might provoke the Persian</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Were he to teach the world riot anew,</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">My gloves of fishes’ and birds’ skins perfumed,</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">With gums of paradise and eastern air….’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(II.ii.88-94)</span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="line-height: normal;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Again, when Mammon tries to woo Doll dressed as the lord’s sister, he tells her that ‘thou shalt ha’ thy wardrobe, Richer than Nature’s, still, to change thyself, And vary oft’ner for thy pride, than she, Or Art, her wise and almost equal servant’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(Iv.i.166)</span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">When Subtle speaks with Tribulation, the puritan, about recapturing the puritans’ interest in his alchemists’ scheme, Subtle marks that they will not need to worry about ‘whether matrons of the holy assembly, May lay their hair out, or wear doublets, Or have that idol, Starch, about their linen’. </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(III.ii.80-83).</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Here the puritanical obsession with avoiding items of fashion, and of enforcing that women should not wear men’s clothing comes to the fore.</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[liv]</span></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The audience is also presented with the call for Drugger to borrow a Spanish suit from the players; with the recognition of the cloak itself as probably being the actual cloak used in the staging of </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Spanish Tragedy</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, and with the actor playing the part of the borrower joking about the fact that the audience must have seen him dressed as a fool in a previous play. I have written the scene as it appears in the text:</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Face ‘Thou must borrow </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">A Spanish suit. Hast thou no credit with the players?</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Drugger Yes sir, did you never see me play the fool?</span></span></span></div></div><div class="BlockQuotation"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> </span></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Face I know not, Nab [Aside] Thou shalt if I can help it – </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Hieronomo’s old cloak, ruff and hat will serve. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">I shall tell you more when thou bringst ‘em</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="line-height: normal;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">It is also possible that when Jonson satirises Spenser’s </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Faerie Queene</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> by dressing up Doll, that she wore something which might be associated with the Spenserian text, providing a further level of comedy.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Reference is also made to coloured bands when Face declares that the citizens will gape at her [Dame Pliant] ‘and praise her tires! And my lord’s goose-turd bands, that rides with her!’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(IV.iv.50)</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Although many other clothing examples exist within the play, one further example is that of Surly, who through his own disguise at the outset of the play becomes the very means of uncovering the plot. By donning his Spanish ruff and cloak, he apparently becomes Spanish.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Face and Subtle speak openly of gulling him to his face and they assume that he cannot understand, and Ananias describes his ruff as ‘That ruff of pride About thy neck’ and says that Thou look’st like Antichrist in that lewd hat’ </span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">(IV.vii51-55). </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">His trousers are described as ‘profane, Lewd, superstitious, and idolatrous breeches’.</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 24px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> (IV.vii.48) </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Subtle and Face manage to turn the others gulls against him, on the grounds that he is clearly a Spanish spy. Each of these examples works in parallel with the other, and simultaneously sends up the Spanish, the Puritans, the thieves and fashion or clothing.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="ChapterLabel"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Clothing is literally the fabric which weaves society together. It signals your status and class, your actual wealth, your aspirations and your failures. It’s an item you pay your servants with, and a gift you give your retainers. It’s also an object you document in portraiture, and re-cycle continuously until it can no longer be worn. Even then it is translated into something else.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">That clothing should become such a key part of the renaissance theatre should be of no surprise as theatre is all about representations of types. An actor does not have the time to go into the social background of this character - no flashbacks here. Within seconds of entering the stage he must communicate who he is, and - along with any play on his name, the language he uses, or the actor playing the part - costume is arguably the most immediately recognizable element of his role.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Clothes may even take on role of their own, and be recognizable from one performance to the next, so that in donning your costume, you become the role with all its inherited background.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></a></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1254481542"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">That clothing should therefore be used as a means of satirising types within the theatre should again be of no surprise – one has only to consider the function of clothing within modern comedy to understand its impact. Surely the character of Ali G would not be as funny if the characterisation were left to Sasha Cohen alone, the costume is an essential part of the role, and makes it instantly recognisable. The same applies to the comedic types in Little Britain etc. The early modern city comedies were no different, and costume is at the heart of their production. Given the number of City Comedies which are not currently in print, and which are rarely performed, there must be countless other avenues to explore, and references to decipher.</span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
</span></div></div></div><div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"></div></div></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3273731185917130785.post-21650568671456578922010-08-07T10:00:00.000-07:002010-08-16T09:59:51.496-07:00- Part 7: The Bibliography<div class="Section1"><div class="MsoBodyText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Pr</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">imary Texts:</span></span></div></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Beaumont, Francis, ed. M Hattaway, (London: A &C Black, 1969; repr. 1998)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Chapman, George, Ben Jonson, and John Marston, ed., R. W. Van Fossen, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Eastward Ho</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1979; repr. 1999)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Dekker, Thomas, ed., Anthony Parr, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Shoemaker’s Holiday</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (London: A &C Black, 1990; repr. 1997)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Dekker, Thomas, ed., Fredson Bowers, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Dramatic Works of Thomas Dekker</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press 1953)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Dekker, Thomas, The Guls Hornbook, (London: J M Dent & Sons, 1941)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Jonson, Ben, ed., Gordon Campbell, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Alchemist and Other Plays</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1995; rev. 1998)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Marston, John, ed., Keith Sturgess, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Malcontent and Other Plays,</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1997)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Middleton, Thomas & Thomas Dekker, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Roaring Girl</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (London: A &C Black, 1976; repr. 2000)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Middleton, Thomas, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">A Chaste Maid in Cheapside</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (London: A &C Black, 1976; repr. 2000)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><br />
</a> </span></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleChapterSubtitleJustified" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Secondary Texts:</a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Arnold, J., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Leeds: W S Maney & Son, 1988)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Briggs, J., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">This Stage Play World</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1983; repr. 1991)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Gibbons, B., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Jacobean City Comedy</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1968)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Gurr, A., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Playgoing in Shakespeare’s London</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1987; repr. 1997)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Gurr, A., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Shakespearean Stage 1574 – 1642</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992; repr. 1997)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Harte, N. B., ‘State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Trade Government and Economy in Pre-Industrial England</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, ed. D.C. Coleman and A.H. John (London: Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1976)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Hooper, W., 'The Tudor Sumptuary Laws', </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">English Historical Review</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> 30 (1915), 433-49</a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Hunt, A., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law, </a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">(Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1996)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Jardine, L., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Still Harping on Daughters</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Brighton: The Harvester Press, 1983)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Jardine, L., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Worldly Goods, A New History of the Renaissance</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (London: Macmillan, 1996; repr. 1997)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Jones, R. A. & P. </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Stallybrass, Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000; repr. 2002)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Leinwand, T. B., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The City Staged, Jacobean Comedy, 1603-13</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (London: University of Wisconsin Press, 1986)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Manley, L., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Literature and Culture in Early Modern England</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1995; repr. 1997)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Stone, Lawrence, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Family, Sex and Marriage in England, 1500 – 1800</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1977; repr. 1990)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="SectionLabel"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Notes</a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><br />
</a> </span></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div></div><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><br />
</a> </span></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"></span></a></span></span></div><hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[i]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> The 1575-76 Acts of Apparel are included as Appendix I, taken from Hunt, A., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law </a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">(Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1996)<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[ii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Harte, N. B., ‘State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Trade Government and Economy in Pre-Industrial England</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, ed. D.C. Coleman and A.H. John (London: Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1976), p 132-66<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[iii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">’, p134-135<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[iv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">’, p135<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[v]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Harte lists these as Lords, knights, esquires, and gentlemen, yeomen and servants of husbandry, common labourers and servants to artificers dwelling out of a city or borough. Those earning above £40 a year, or with possessions to the value of forty shilling a year, or above, are a class in their own right. See p. 136 for further information.<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[vi]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See </a></span></span></span><span class="EndnoteChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Hooper, W., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">'The Tudor Sumptuary Laws'</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, English Historical Review 30 (1915), 433-49. p</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">433<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[vii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See </a></span></span></span><span class="EndnoteChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Hooper, W., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">'The Tudor Sumptuary Laws'</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">435<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[viii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p137<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[ix]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See </a></span></span></span><span class="EndnoteChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Hooper, W., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">'The Tudor Sumptuary Laws'</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">436<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[x]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p139<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xi]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p139<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p144-5<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xiii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See </a></span></span></span><span class="EndnoteChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Hooper, W., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">'The Tudor Sumptuary Laws'</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">435<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xiv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p145<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See </a></span></span></span><span class="EndnoteChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Hooper, W., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">'The Tudor Sumptuary Laws'</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">438<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xvi]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> </a></span></span></span><span class="EndnoteChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Jardine, Lisa, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Still Harping on Daughters</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Brighton: The Harvester Press, 1983), p142</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xvii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Hooper: p 439-40 ‘It is ordained … that no Taylour, Hosier, or other person whatever he shall be, after the day of the proclamation hereof, shall put any more cloth in any one payre of hosen for the outside, then one yarde & a halfe, or at the moste, one yarde & three quarters of a yard of karsey or of any other clothe, lether, or any other kinde of stuff above that quantitie’<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xviii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See </a></span></span></span><span class="EndnoteChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Hooper, W., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">'The Tudor Sumptuary Laws'</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, </a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">p440<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xix]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p146<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xx]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p148<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxi]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p148<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p149<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoEndnoteText" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxiii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> For a detailed examination of ‘yellow starch’ and the Overbury murder, see Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000; rept. 2002), p59: Yellow Starch: fabrications of the Jacobean Court.<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoEndnoteText" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxiv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p69</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p138<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxvi]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p138<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxvii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Harte, N. B., ‘</a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England’</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p138<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxviii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p4<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxix]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> reference to stubbs</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="StyleBibliographyLeft0cmHanging1cm" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxx]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> </a></span></span></span><span class="EndnoteChar"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Stone, Lawrence, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Family, Sex and Marriage in England, 1500 – 1800</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1977; repr. 1990), Gurr, A., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Playgoing in Shakespeare’s London</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1987; repr. 1997), Gurr, A., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Shakespearean Stage 1574 – 1642</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992; repr. 1997), Manley, L., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Literature and Culture in Early Modern England</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1995; repr. 1997)</a></span></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoEndnoteText" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxi]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p18-21</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote" style="margin-left: 0cm; text-indent: 0cm;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p17<o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoEndnoteText" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxiii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p25-26</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoEndnoteText" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxiv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Arnold, J., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Leeds: W S Maney & Son, 1988)</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="MsoEndnoteText" style="margin-left: 14.2pt; text-indent: -14.2pt;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> ‘Portraits frequently derived from or were supplementary to the sitter’s clothes. The clothes and jewels were inordinately expensive; by comparison, portraits were relatively cheap. £25 was the usual price for a Van Dyke portrait.’ Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p38</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxvi]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Pepys rented a gown of figured silk when he had his portrait painted by Hayls. See Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p40. See also p191 for any analysis of the second hand / rental market, and p190 for a description of items which had obviously been obtained second hand from someone at court.</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxvii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Jardine, Lisa, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Worldly Goods, A New History of the Renaissance</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (London, Macmillan, 1996; repr. 1997), plate 1</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxviii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> ‘Clothes were an enormous investment. As Bently notes, ‘the greatest expense of any company of players in the period was the purchase of costumes’’. Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memor</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">y, p178</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xxxix]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p178</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xl]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p178</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xli]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Gurr, A., </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Shakespearean Stage 1574 – 1642</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992; repr. 1997), p13</a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"><o:p></o:p></a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xlii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> For a breakdown of the entries in </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Henslowe’s Diary</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, and an analysis on disputes amongst the owners, see Jones, R. A. & P. Stallybrass, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p182-186</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xliii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Two of the most influential works in this area are Brian Gibbon’s </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Jacobean City Comedy</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, and Theodore B Leinwand’s </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The City Staged: Jacobean City Comedy, 1603-13</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">.</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xliv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> See the opening passages of Beaumont’s </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Knight of the Burning Pestle</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, where the citizen’s wife hoists herself onto the stage to sit with the gallants. See also Andrew Gurr’s </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">Playgoing in Shakespeare’s London</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> for an extensive account of the social composition of audiences, and their corresponding seating within the playhouses.</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xlv]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Dekker, Thomas, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Guls Hornbook</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, (London: J M Dent & Sons, 1941)</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xlvi]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Dekker, Thomas, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Guls Hornbook</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p48</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xlvii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Dekker, Thomas, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Guls Hornbook</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p50</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xlviii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Dekker, Thomas, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Guls Hornbook</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">, p53. Dekker states that ‘if the writer be a fellow that hath either epigrammed you, or hath had a flirt at your mistris, or hath brought either your feather, or your red beard, or your little legs &c. on the stage, you shall disgrace him worse then by tossing him in a blancket, or giving him the bastinado in a Taverne, if, in the middle of his play, (be it Pastoral or Comedy, Morall or Tragedie) you rise with a screwd and discontented face from your stoole to be gone’</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[xlix]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Middleton, Thomas, and Thomas Dekker, </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Roaring Gi</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">rl, ed. Elizabeth Cook, (London: A &C Black, 1997; repr. 2000), II.i.79-83</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[l]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Middleton, Thomas, and Thomas Dekker, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Roaring Girl</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> , II.i.293-298</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[li]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> Middleton, Thomas, and Thomas Dekker, </a></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">The Roaring Girl</a></span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> , III.i.12-14</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[lii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Middleton, Thomas, and Thomas Dekker, </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Roaring Girl</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342"> , p2</a></span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_923903342">[liii]</a></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Jonson, Ben, ed., Gordon Campbell, </span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The Alchemist and Other Plays</span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">, (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1995; rev. 1998), p319</span></span></span></div></div></div><div id="edn"><div class="Endnote"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">[liv]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #444444;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"> Deuteronomy 22:5 specifically stated that ‘The woman shall not wear that which pertaineth unto a man, neither shall a man put on a woman's garment: for all that do so [are] abomination unto the LORD thy God.’</span></span></span><br />
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</span></span></span></div></div></div></div>Jax Roehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08562710419661395633noreply@blogger.com0